After going through several generations of improving its printers, Canon has finally hit the market with a major contender, the ImagePROGRAF iPF5000, a 17-inch wide desktop printer. I use the term “desktop” with tongue in cheek, because the printer is an absolute beast, measuring 32¥39 inches with the roll-paper (optional) holder attached—and that’s its size with the tray extensions closed.
Why so big? The answer lies in the number of inks and the size of the ink tanks. The ink tanks are 130ml (the tanks that initially come with the printer are only 90ml). The tanks are a little bit large, but that alone does not explain or justify this printer’s behemoth size. The answer is in the number of inks required for the iPF 5000—12!
Huge inkset
As you start counting your subtractive primaries and add some neutrals, you still fall short of a dozen. The iPF5000 has CMY, plus a light cyan and light magenta. It does have two blacks: one a photo black, the other a matte black. Both are simultaneously loaded and accessible; which is used is determined by the type of paper chosen in the software.
Canon is obviously making a big push for the professional fine-art print market, because the iPF5000 also has a gray and a light gray. That brings us to nine inks. The remaining three are pretty ingenious. Instead of using your magenta and yellow inks to make red, and your cyan and yellow to make green, and your cyan and magenta to make blue, Canon adds red, green, and blue tanks, thus giving the iPF5000 what Canon says is the largest color gamut on the market. A set of twelve 130ml inks costs about $900 to replace, but the use of the primary colors actually cuts down the price of printing to about $1.30 per square foot. The single 130ml tanks are $75, roughly comparable in price-per-milliliter to other inks.
User friendly
The iPF 5000 is easy to use. It actually has four paper-feed systems: a cassette that fits in the bottom, an optional roll feeder on the back, and front and rear single-sheet feeders. The roll feeder holds 17-inch-wide paper, as does the cassette. You can load one type of paper in the cassette, another on the roll, and load a third type without having to reconfigure the printer—just choose the paper using the printer driver.
Speaking of software, where Photoshop has you choose whether you want the printer or Photoshop to set the color management, Canon takes a different angle. Start as you normally would, working on an image in Photoshop. When it’s time to print, you can use the Canon Export plug-in (which prepares a 16-bit file to print in the 12 bits the printer offers) if you intend to use Canon’s paper/ink combo. Canon will eventually market more than 30 types of substrates for this printer.
However, as I write, not many of the Canon papers are available, though the printer started hitting the streets a month ago. While availability seems to be improving weekly, I had to use MediaStreet, Innova, Moab, and a limited number of Canon papers to test this printer. What made this solution easier was creating my paper profiles by using my GretagMacbeth Eye-One Photo and saving the profiles on my computer.
Before going to the Canon Photoshop Export plug-ins, I take my image and select Edit > Convert to Profile in Photoshop, choose the paper profile I’m going to print on, save the image with the paper profile embedded, and then send the print to Canon’s plug-in. (It actually takes a lot longer to write these directions than to do them.) When you load a color image, you don’t change profiles, because the profile for the paper is embedded in the file. You don’t need color management after this.
Print quality
When you Convert to Profile, don’t convert a 16-bit image to 8-bits because the iPF5000 can print 16-bit files. It’s actually 12 bits, converted to 16 bits, but that is 12-bit times 12 inks, a significant increase in tonality and color fidelity over 8-bit printers. Compare the results, and you can easily recognize the difference in print quality.
Depending on your personal preference for quality versus dispensing of ink, you can choose to print at resolutions as low as 300 or 600 dpi. Another variable, the paper you choose, will offer you a selection of 6, 8, 12, or 16 passes of the print heads (depending on how much ink your paper can take) for an unbelievably smooth tonal scale and rich, full coloration.
This improved print quality comes from several components. One is Canon’s new Lucia inks, a pigment ink covered with an extra polymer compound offering resistance to humidity, water, and fading. Wilhelm Research is still testing the ink’s permanence, but Canon has been told by Wilhelm Research that preliminary results indicate at least 100 years. Tests are ongoing.
The print head itself has a density of 15,360 nozzles at four-picoliter size. The head has automatic cleaning and compensating for partially operating jets by redirecting other nozzles. How can it do this? Because it doesn’t have just one head, it has two, for a total of 30,720 nozzles. Each head has a resolution of 1,200 dpi. With two heads, the maximum resolution is 2,400¥ 1,200. Unlike the heads on most other inkjets, these are user-replaceable. The technology is called FINE (Full PhotoLithography Inkjet Nozzle Engineering), which beats the name “Bubblejet.” Inks can be swapped out and replaced mid-print without a loss of media, and the roll holder actually monitors the amount of ink left. The printer also maintains knowledge of the environment (temperature and humidity), as well as ink data and controls the transport and writing mechanism accordingly.
The printer, with USB and no roll-feeder, sells for $1,945. The roll-feed adapter is an additional $295. An optional Firewire IEEE 1394 interface is available for $235. The iPF5000 does have a built-in Ethernet card.
The printer offers much to please fine-art photographers. For black-and-white printing, you can choose the Monochrome Mode, a series of three achromatic inks that should produce no color shift or metamerism. Even in Monochrome Mode, you can add a warm or cool tint.
The tonal range is staggering, and the prints look almost as though they were contact printed. (See the review of Exposure software in this issue if you want to add the appearance of grain.) The prints are unbelievable, with a richness and depth in all primary colors that I have not seen before.
Objective tests with a reflective densitometer showed matte papers to have a maximum reflective density of 1.50 to 1.57, with MediaStreet and Moab Entrada papers having the greatest density. The papers were all tested at six passes. At a 16-pass setting, density increased about 5%.
I tested a number of other papers in gloss, semi-gloss, and matte. The Canon RC Semi-Gloss at six passes had a maximum density of 2.18. When tested at 16 passes, maximum density jumped to 2.30. Using the same paper on a Canon 6400 pigment printer, maximum density was only 2.08.
The Canon Semi-Gloss RC paper has one of the finest non-matte surfaces I’ve ever worked with, but the 17-inch paper is currently unavailable. I hand-cut mine from a roll of 24-inch that was available. While it looks a little like the Canon Satin, the paper base is thicker.
Conclusion
The iPF5000 printer is a real epiphany for Canon, offering top-notch state-of-the-art technology for producing the best output for the discerning artist. I would not be surprised to see this quality technology show up in other Canon printers, bringing Canon into a real leadership role in quality printing.
Friday, December 29, 2006
Recipe for Perfect Metering: Artistically Weighted
Regardless of whether you shoot black-and-white, color, film or digital, accurate exposure is paramount to high quality results. I don’t subscribe to the “bracket like hell” philosophy. Whether
shooting people, wildlife or landscapes, I think there is a “magic moment”—often short lived—when all the elements come together. Statistically, when you bracket, you’re more likely to fail to get the right exposure at the right moment. I find the best photographs are usually made when you are in control.
Some photographers feel there is enough latitude in today’s films and digital sensors to allow a careless approach to exposure. This isn’t so. Many films and digital sensors have a 4–6 ƒ/stop range before there is a noticeable degradation in image quality. For example, even though some digital sensors reportedly have a wider range of exposure, there’s a fair amount of noise past a certain point. Thus, many images require accurate metering to obtain full detail in the shadows and highlights, as well as minimal noise. A similar situation exists with film. Remember that if something is lost, no amount of chemical or digital manipulation will bring back what is not there.
shooting people, wildlife or landscapes, I think there is a “magic moment”—often short lived—when all the elements come together. Statistically, when you bracket, you’re more likely to fail to get the right exposure at the right moment. I find the best photographs are usually made when you are in control.
Some photographers feel there is enough latitude in today’s films and digital sensors to allow a careless approach to exposure. This isn’t so. Many films and digital sensors have a 4–6 ƒ/stop range before there is a noticeable degradation in image quality. For example, even though some digital sensors reportedly have a wider range of exposure, there’s a fair amount of noise past a certain point. Thus, many images require accurate metering to obtain full detail in the shadows and highlights, as well as minimal noise. A similar situation exists with film. Remember that if something is lost, no amount of chemical or digital manipulation will bring back what is not there.
High-Speed Flash Photography
In the past, high-speed photography was limited to research institutions and a small select group of individuals who built or modified their own equipment. Practitioners had to be knowledgeable in areas such as high-voltage electronics and circuit design. Now, some 100 years after the advent of high-speed photography (the process of capturing an exposure faster than 1⁄10,000 second), the equipment has become greatly simplified and within the price range of the serious photographer.
Dropping Objects into Water
One of the shots art directors commonly request (and use) is an object dropping into water. The object is usually a featured product and the art director wants to show its relationship to water and add some excitement. A falling object traps air as it moves into water, and only a high-speed flash will capture this with a minimum of blur. This is a fairly simple shot that novice high-speed photographers can gain a lot of experience by trying.
I use a 40-gallon fish tank from the local pet store. Ideally the tank should be much larger, but a smaller one has an important advantage: The water needs to be changed every few dozen shots, depending on how much dust collects in it, and a smaller tank is much easier to clean. The tank should be located close to a sink, and water should not be left in the tank for more than a day or two. Otherwise, as the water evaporates, it leaves a line of calcium that is difficult to clean and will show in future shots.
Dropping Objects into Water
One of the shots art directors commonly request (and use) is an object dropping into water. The object is usually a featured product and the art director wants to show its relationship to water and add some excitement. A falling object traps air as it moves into water, and only a high-speed flash will capture this with a minimum of blur. This is a fairly simple shot that novice high-speed photographers can gain a lot of experience by trying.
I use a 40-gallon fish tank from the local pet store. Ideally the tank should be much larger, but a smaller one has an important advantage: The water needs to be changed every few dozen shots, depending on how much dust collects in it, and a smaller tank is much easier to clean. The tank should be located close to a sink, and water should not be left in the tank for more than a day or two. Otherwise, as the water evaporates, it leaves a line of calcium that is difficult to clean and will show in future shots.
EXPLORING THE COLOR GAMUT
Whenever you read a review of a new printer or a discussion on inkjet inks, inevitably gamut will be mentioned somewhere in the article. But what exactly is a device gamut, and how do we use it? A gamut is defined as the range of colors that a device can create. People use different terminology—color gamut, device gamut, or simply gamut—but they all mean the same thing. The gamut is basically a way of representing the range of colors a printer can print or the range of colors a monitor can display. This article describes what gamut is, and how it may differ for different inkjet printers and different printing conditions, such as matte paper vs. photo quality paper.
Device gamut
A device gamut is best represented as a three-dimensional volume. To plot a device gamut you may use the CIE LAB system. The LAB system is a way to numerically specify a color by its position within a three-dimensional space. Another CIE system you may encounter is CIE Yxy. The spacing of colors in the Yxy system is not optimum, i.e. the colors are not well distributed. In this article, we’ll avoid using Yxy, instead concentrating on plotting the gamut in terms of LAB.
Device gamut
A device gamut is best represented as a three-dimensional volume. To plot a device gamut you may use the CIE LAB system. The LAB system is a way to numerically specify a color by its position within a three-dimensional space. Another CIE system you may encounter is CIE Yxy. The spacing of colors in the Yxy system is not optimum, i.e. the colors are not well distributed. In this article, we’ll avoid using Yxy, instead concentrating on plotting the gamut in terms of LAB.
Pentax and optical glass maker Hoya to merge
The latest camera manufacturer merger will take place next October between optical glass maker Hoya and Pentax.
The two companies will become known as Hoya Pentax HD on 1 October, after the contract is signed in April.
The last major merger in this industry was between Konica and Minolta, who became Konica Minolta in 2003, and then handed everything over the Sony last year.
Pentax says that it needs support as it tries to increase its DSLR sales. “We were always aiming to expand our digital camera business, but it takes time. In the meantime we received a proposal by Hoya to cooperate in the medical area, where we foresaw potential for our growth,” Pentax president Fumio Urano said at a news conference.
Hoya is the larger of the two business, quoted at 4,510 yen on the Tokyo Stock Exchange, while Pentax was quoted at 690 yen.
The two companies will become known as Hoya Pentax HD on 1 October, after the contract is signed in April.
The last major merger in this industry was between Konica and Minolta, who became Konica Minolta in 2003, and then handed everything over the Sony last year.
Pentax says that it needs support as it tries to increase its DSLR sales. “We were always aiming to expand our digital camera business, but it takes time. In the meantime we received a proposal by Hoya to cooperate in the medical area, where we foresaw potential for our growth,” Pentax president Fumio Urano said at a news conference.
Hoya is the larger of the two business, quoted at 4,510 yen on the Tokyo Stock Exchange, while Pentax was quoted at 690 yen.
Waterproof Camera Cases for Camcorders, Digital Cameras!
Waterproof camera cases for camcorders, digital cameras, slr and compact cameras too.
Ewa-Marine waterproof camera cases are designed to easily cope with fresh or salt water.
Protect camcorders, digital cameras, slr, cell phones, vhf radios from water, dust and grit.
Ewa-Marine 100% waterproof protection are test rated at depths of 30 feet to over 150 feet!
Cases & pouches to protect your cell phones, vhf radios, walkie talkies, gps, pda's, maps, documents and other valuables!
* Ewa-Marine 100% Waterproof Protection
* Waterproof Camera & Camcorder Cases
* Waterproof Digital Camera Cases
* Flexible Underwater Housings
* Rain Capes / Hurricane Hoods
* Waterproof VHF Radio Cases
* Waterproof Cell Phone & Walkie Talkie Cases
* DU & DUS Waterproof Pouches for Maps, Keys, Cash
Our waterproof camera cases are designed for underwater photographers. Our cases are 100% waterproof, while allowing you to safely operate your equipment at the same time!
Ewa-Marine waterproof camera cases are designed to easily cope with fresh or salt water.
Protect camcorders, digital cameras, slr, cell phones, vhf radios from water, dust and grit.
Ewa-Marine 100% waterproof protection are test rated at depths of 30 feet to over 150 feet!
Cases & pouches to protect your cell phones, vhf radios, walkie talkies, gps, pda's, maps, documents and other valuables!
* Ewa-Marine 100% Waterproof Protection
* Waterproof Camera & Camcorder Cases
* Waterproof Digital Camera Cases
* Flexible Underwater Housings
* Rain Capes / Hurricane Hoods
* Waterproof VHF Radio Cases
* Waterproof Cell Phone & Walkie Talkie Cases
* DU & DUS Waterproof Pouches for Maps, Keys, Cash
Our waterproof camera cases are designed for underwater photographers. Our cases are 100% waterproof, while allowing you to safely operate your equipment at the same time!
Photo Sharing Online
Make The Most Of Digital & Film Photography
Whether taking digital or film photos, many of us don't take advantage of the resources available to us nowadays. Instead, we clog up our friends' email inboxes with party candids, we fill up our hard drive with unorganized sets of graphics files, and/or we turn the home office into a print shop for vacation pictures.
Fortunately, Web photo services can help us clear away the clutter. Sign up, and you and your friends can view photos and order paper prints online. These services even provide free Web storage space for your digital images; all you pay for are the paper prints you order. You also can order items with photos printed on them, from mousepads to greeting cards. This month we round up the most popular of these services: Ofoto, Snapfish, and Shutterfly. Once you see what they offer, you'll wonder how you lived without them.
Common Features
To use any Web photo service, you'll need to upload (transfer) your graphics files from your hard drive (or a digital camera connected to your computer) to the Web. Users with dial-up Internet connections will wait longer than broadband users for their files to upload. With a 56Kbps (kilobits per second) modem, it may take two minutes to upload a 400KB file, and a batch of 10 may take 30 minutes.
One of Ofoto's strengths is its online image-editing capability.
These services only accept JPEG (Joint Photographic Experts Group) files, which use the .JPG extension. If your pictures exist in another file type, use an image-editing program, such as Adobe Photoshop or Jasc Paint Shop Pro, to convert them to JPEG files first.
Online photo-sharing services usually provide free downloadable software for image editing and batch uploading.
Whether taking digital or film photos, many of us don't take advantage of the resources available to us nowadays. Instead, we clog up our friends' email inboxes with party candids, we fill up our hard drive with unorganized sets of graphics files, and/or we turn the home office into a print shop for vacation pictures.
Fortunately, Web photo services can help us clear away the clutter. Sign up, and you and your friends can view photos and order paper prints online. These services even provide free Web storage space for your digital images; all you pay for are the paper prints you order. You also can order items with photos printed on them, from mousepads to greeting cards. This month we round up the most popular of these services: Ofoto, Snapfish, and Shutterfly. Once you see what they offer, you'll wonder how you lived without them.
Common Features
To use any Web photo service, you'll need to upload (transfer) your graphics files from your hard drive (or a digital camera connected to your computer) to the Web. Users with dial-up Internet connections will wait longer than broadband users for their files to upload. With a 56Kbps (kilobits per second) modem, it may take two minutes to upload a 400KB file, and a batch of 10 may take 30 minutes.
One of Ofoto's strengths is its online image-editing capability.
These services only accept JPEG (Joint Photographic Experts Group) files, which use the .JPG extension. If your pictures exist in another file type, use an image-editing program, such as Adobe Photoshop or Jasc Paint Shop Pro, to convert them to JPEG files first.
Online photo-sharing services usually provide free downloadable software for image editing and batch uploading.
Thursday, December 28, 2006
NPPA Independent Photographer's Toolkit
Welcome to the NPPA Independent Photographer's Toolkit. If you are an independent photographer or simply shoot a little on the side, you are running a business. Many photographers look at freelancing as extra money or a way to get by until a staff job comes along. But if you are not looking at your photography as a business, you may be cheating yourself, and worse, you may be hurting the very industry you are trying to break in to.
As a business owner, you have certain responsibilities: to yourself, to your employees, to your clients and to the government. A successful business owner pays attention to all of these obligations and finds a balance that keeps his or her business growing. It takes more than being a talented photographer to succeed in the independent marketplace. Strong business skills are just as important. There is a very high rate of failure in small business, and this guide is meant to help you avoid contributing to those negative figures.
If you buy photography or hire freelancers, you may also find useful answers here. The Photo Buyers Resource section offers useful information about copyright and your responsibilities as a manager. Please look soon for more content including a new NPPA Find a Photographer service.
If you are a staff photographer or an editor, this resource is for you, as well. Freelance photographers have a direct impact on staff jobs. Newsrooms have proved they aren't immune from Corporate America's demands for cutting costs and increasing profits. With contract labor available for significantly less than employees, photography positions are disappearing. Lay-offs are not uncommon and hiring freezes are frequent. In such a climate, the welfare of independent photographers can clearly affect you and your staff.
This section is meant to be a guide to help put you on the right track. But the information you will find here is by no means the entire picture. There are many things to consider when running a photography business. Please look at this toolkit as a starting point along the difficult road to a successful editorial photography business.
In that endeavor, we wish you all the best.
As a business owner, you have certain responsibilities: to yourself, to your employees, to your clients and to the government. A successful business owner pays attention to all of these obligations and finds a balance that keeps his or her business growing. It takes more than being a talented photographer to succeed in the independent marketplace. Strong business skills are just as important. There is a very high rate of failure in small business, and this guide is meant to help you avoid contributing to those negative figures.
If you buy photography or hire freelancers, you may also find useful answers here. The Photo Buyers Resource section offers useful information about copyright and your responsibilities as a manager. Please look soon for more content including a new NPPA Find a Photographer service.
If you are a staff photographer or an editor, this resource is for you, as well. Freelance photographers have a direct impact on staff jobs. Newsrooms have proved they aren't immune from Corporate America's demands for cutting costs and increasing profits. With contract labor available for significantly less than employees, photography positions are disappearing. Lay-offs are not uncommon and hiring freezes are frequent. In such a climate, the welfare of independent photographers can clearly affect you and your staff.
This section is meant to be a guide to help put you on the right track. But the information you will find here is by no means the entire picture. There are many things to consider when running a photography business. Please look at this toolkit as a starting point along the difficult road to a successful editorial photography business.
In that endeavor, we wish you all the best.
New Year Resolutions for Photographers
Resolutions for photographers
1. If you don't yet have a web site, get one. If you already have a web site, make sure it is working properly for you.
2. Update your web site regularly – and let others know.
3. Make use of other web sites and services to publicise and sell your work.
4. The labourer is worthy of his hire.
Below are some comments on these resolutions.
A New Web Site
Many photographers have now found that a web site is a vital tool for generating interest in their work and business. It can be an incredibly cost-effective way of getting publicity.
Do It Yourself?
It isn't actually hard to learn enough to write a reasonably effective web site. The key is to keep it simple. Software such as the relatively expensive Dreamweaver or the free NVU (‘en-view’) both let you design sites simply without having to become a geek.
Most image manipulation software and other programs will also produce web galleries from a directory of files at the touch of a button. The pages can be customised and linked to your simply written front pages.
Employ a Web Design Pro
If you don't have time to do it yourself, then pay someone to set it up for you. Look at some sites they have designed already, ask them some questions and make sure they understand what you want. Many sites online prove that photographers have wasted their money.
Make sure your site design allows:
* you to update it easily, both to change the front page and to add new sections.
* anyone to link directly to at least the main sections - for example each different gallery of images - in your site, so you can send out e-mailings about new work.
* anyone to find it easily typing your key search terms into a search engine
Whether a new or existing site, make sure:
* your front page looks good and displays at least one of your best images.
* your front page has clear links to all the different sections of your site
* you have no intros or fancy effects.
* your site is optimised for the search engines
* if you want sound, make sure there is a very clear link to turn it off
Spend time looking at web pages by similar photographers and make yours better. Inside the site there may be scope for designers to show off some of their skills with presentations or other content that can attract people, but make sure you keep the basic site simple.
Names and Titles
Names are important. Google currently gives 29 million hits for my name, almost all not me. That's bad news. Were I starting now I'd probably choose to be the only Peter Gwyn Marshall on the web rather than the plain common name I live by. (The good news is that this site comes in at number 5 & 6 in that 29 million, with two of my personal sites in the top twenty and others in the first hundred.) We can't all be born with great and memorable names, but we can think of good ones for our sites and domains and make sure we make use of them. About Photography isn't bad. Don't forget to make sure that every page on your web site has an appropriate title - and I always include your site name in that title and on your page so that people always know they are on your site.
Good Pictures
It should be obvious, but make sure your pictures look good. Choose your best work and process it carefully. Avoid tiny images (except for thumbnails), nasty watermarks, dust and scratch marks, over compression and over sharpening etc. Web standards have changed over the years as we've moved to broadband and higher resolution screens, and any main images should probably now be at least 500 pixels maximum dimension. Most on my own sites are at 600x400, occasionally larger. A big picture can help add impact. Remember to convert them to sRGB if you shoot or scan as Adobe RGB too.
Portfolio Services
There are online services that are set up to display the work of photographers with a monthly or annual fee. These vary from the excellent to the rip-off. Check you can control what is shown easily, that there are no hidden fees or large percentages on sales, and that the cost is reasonable compared to the likely results.
One vital check is to see how easy it is to find one of the photographers already on the site using a search engine.
Update and Publicise
When you have a web site:
* keep it up to date - put on new material regularly, at least monthly.
* check your Google rating (in the Google toolbar on your browser.) use your key search terms on Google to make sure your site is visible. A Google rating of 4 or better is the minimum you should aim for.
* let others know about your web site - and again when you make your regular updates. E-mail a brief news mailing to former and potential clients with a link direct to your new work.
* create a links page and add links to photography sites you admire or find useful
Linking to the sites of other photographers whose work you admire, both in your own fields and other types of work provides a useful service to those visiting your site and also associates you with other good photography.
E-mail photographers you have linked to and suggest they may like to look at your site and possibly link back. Never suggest that your link depends on them making a link or make an offer that you will link to them if they link to you.
Use the Community
Take part in news groups, forums, mailing lists and groups on online image sharing services such as Flikr, making sure that your signature etc contains your site details.
As well as getting your work known, groups such as this (and also actual in the flesh groups) provide you with ideas, inspiration and feedback on your work, all vital to creative growth.
Recognise your worth
Review your list of charges and decide if you are charging enough for the quality and service you are providing. Check the web sites and price lists of other photographers in your area and field of work, and make sure your prices are generally similar to theirs. If you belong to a professional body, they may have some advice on pricing. Unless your prices are way above those of other photographers, you will seldom lose an opportunity on price. Work on the cheap and your clients won't value your work.
Like many photographers' I'm appalled at the low value placed on photographs by some of those offering royalty-free images - sometimes as little as a dollar a picture. So far I've kept all of my work on a rights-managed basis, but I know photographers who are adding to their income by selling work through online RF agencies. Mainly these are pictures that otherwise would be thrown out or deleted, but if you look at the big online sites there are some good RF images there.
I've read it suggested that it might even be worth putting a few good generic images on one of the fast-growing royalty free stock sites to get a little publicity. I'm not convinced, but although sites like iStockphoto may be a truly raw deal for photographers, they may get your name up on the screens of many designers - and perhaps lead to more valuable sales.
This rather goes against my biblical 4th resolution, 'The labourer is worthy of his hire'. I'm resolved never again to work with the publishers and other commercial users who want to use my work for free - pointing out what great publicity it will be for me to be in their book, magazine, leaflet, web site etc, or promising that it will lead to further work from them and others.
Believe me, it never does. Let's resolve to keep our charity for those that deserve it.
1. If you don't yet have a web site, get one. If you already have a web site, make sure it is working properly for you.
2. Update your web site regularly – and let others know.
3. Make use of other web sites and services to publicise and sell your work.
4. The labourer is worthy of his hire.
Below are some comments on these resolutions.
A New Web Site
Many photographers have now found that a web site is a vital tool for generating interest in their work and business. It can be an incredibly cost-effective way of getting publicity.
Do It Yourself?
It isn't actually hard to learn enough to write a reasonably effective web site. The key is to keep it simple. Software such as the relatively expensive Dreamweaver or the free NVU (‘en-view’) both let you design sites simply without having to become a geek.
Most image manipulation software and other programs will also produce web galleries from a directory of files at the touch of a button. The pages can be customised and linked to your simply written front pages.
Employ a Web Design Pro
If you don't have time to do it yourself, then pay someone to set it up for you. Look at some sites they have designed already, ask them some questions and make sure they understand what you want. Many sites online prove that photographers have wasted their money.
Make sure your site design allows:
* you to update it easily, both to change the front page and to add new sections.
* anyone to link directly to at least the main sections - for example each different gallery of images - in your site, so you can send out e-mailings about new work.
* anyone to find it easily typing your key search terms into a search engine
Whether a new or existing site, make sure:
* your front page looks good and displays at least one of your best images.
* your front page has clear links to all the different sections of your site
* you have no intros or fancy effects.
* your site is optimised for the search engines
* if you want sound, make sure there is a very clear link to turn it off
Spend time looking at web pages by similar photographers and make yours better. Inside the site there may be scope for designers to show off some of their skills with presentations or other content that can attract people, but make sure you keep the basic site simple.
Names and Titles
Names are important. Google currently gives 29 million hits for my name, almost all not me. That's bad news. Were I starting now I'd probably choose to be the only Peter Gwyn Marshall on the web rather than the plain common name I live by. (The good news is that this site comes in at number 5 & 6 in that 29 million, with two of my personal sites in the top twenty and others in the first hundred.) We can't all be born with great and memorable names, but we can think of good ones for our sites and domains and make sure we make use of them. About Photography isn't bad. Don't forget to make sure that every page on your web site has an appropriate title - and I always include your site name in that title and on your page so that people always know they are on your site.
Good Pictures
It should be obvious, but make sure your pictures look good. Choose your best work and process it carefully. Avoid tiny images (except for thumbnails), nasty watermarks, dust and scratch marks, over compression and over sharpening etc. Web standards have changed over the years as we've moved to broadband and higher resolution screens, and any main images should probably now be at least 500 pixels maximum dimension. Most on my own sites are at 600x400, occasionally larger. A big picture can help add impact. Remember to convert them to sRGB if you shoot or scan as Adobe RGB too.
Portfolio Services
There are online services that are set up to display the work of photographers with a monthly or annual fee. These vary from the excellent to the rip-off. Check you can control what is shown easily, that there are no hidden fees or large percentages on sales, and that the cost is reasonable compared to the likely results.
One vital check is to see how easy it is to find one of the photographers already on the site using a search engine.
Update and Publicise
When you have a web site:
* keep it up to date - put on new material regularly, at least monthly.
* check your Google rating (in the Google toolbar on your browser.) use your key search terms on Google to make sure your site is visible. A Google rating of 4 or better is the minimum you should aim for.
* let others know about your web site - and again when you make your regular updates. E-mail a brief news mailing to former and potential clients with a link direct to your new work.
* create a links page and add links to photography sites you admire or find useful
Linking to the sites of other photographers whose work you admire, both in your own fields and other types of work provides a useful service to those visiting your site and also associates you with other good photography.
E-mail photographers you have linked to and suggest they may like to look at your site and possibly link back. Never suggest that your link depends on them making a link or make an offer that you will link to them if they link to you.
Use the Community
Take part in news groups, forums, mailing lists and groups on online image sharing services such as Flikr, making sure that your signature etc contains your site details.
As well as getting your work known, groups such as this (and also actual in the flesh groups) provide you with ideas, inspiration and feedback on your work, all vital to creative growth.
Recognise your worth
Review your list of charges and decide if you are charging enough for the quality and service you are providing. Check the web sites and price lists of other photographers in your area and field of work, and make sure your prices are generally similar to theirs. If you belong to a professional body, they may have some advice on pricing. Unless your prices are way above those of other photographers, you will seldom lose an opportunity on price. Work on the cheap and your clients won't value your work.
Like many photographers' I'm appalled at the low value placed on photographs by some of those offering royalty-free images - sometimes as little as a dollar a picture. So far I've kept all of my work on a rights-managed basis, but I know photographers who are adding to their income by selling work through online RF agencies. Mainly these are pictures that otherwise would be thrown out or deleted, but if you look at the big online sites there are some good RF images there.
I've read it suggested that it might even be worth putting a few good generic images on one of the fast-growing royalty free stock sites to get a little publicity. I'm not convinced, but although sites like iStockphoto may be a truly raw deal for photographers, they may get your name up on the screens of many designers - and perhaps lead to more valuable sales.
This rather goes against my biblical 4th resolution, 'The labourer is worthy of his hire'. I'm resolved never again to work with the publishers and other commercial users who want to use my work for free - pointing out what great publicity it will be for me to be in their book, magazine, leaflet, web site etc, or promising that it will lead to further work from them and others.
Believe me, it never does. Let's resolve to keep our charity for those that deserve it.
Night Pictures with Simple Compact Cameras
Before you Begin
Read the manual or look through the menus and find out:
* how your can turn the flash off
* if there is a special long exposure setting
* if your camera has a 'night' scene mode
* how you can set the ISO speed of the camera
Using Flash
The flash built into simple compact cameras is designed to take pictures from around 3 foot to around 10 foot from your camera. Anything too close will almost certainly be far too bright in the picture, and anything further away is too dark.
When taking pictures, try to keep all important subject matter roughly the same distance from the camera. If you have some people much closer than others, they will look wrong, as they will be lighter than the others.
If your camera has a manual mode, you should be able to adjust the exposure.
This is often called 'exposure compensation'. If your pictures are too dark try adding a positive amount of compensation, if too bright, reduce the amount set. For most pictures on my Ixus 400, I find a setting of -2/3 gives best results, but even if you used the same camera you might prefer another setting.
Flash Outside
Outside at night, the flash will only light up anything close to the camera. If you can alter the ISO speed, you will find that increasing it gives more detail in the background. In brightly lit city streets, I find that working at ISO 400 can produce results that give good flash exposure for people around 6 ft from the camera and also a reasonably bright background.
You don't want the background to be too bright, or it won't really look like a night picture. Take your picture at different ISO values and see which works best.
Working Without Flash
If your camera works at ISO 800 or greater, you can take pictures in brightly lit city streets or interiors without flash. Find the camera setting that switches the flash off. Make sure you keep the camera still (it helps to hold it against something solid if you can) and squeeze the button gently to avoid a jerk.
In low light, the anti-vibration systems built into some cameras help you to get sharp pictures, though any moving people or objects will still blur. Take pictures at the zoom setting that gives the widest angle of view. If you zoom out to get greater magnification it also magnifies any shaking.
Small Sensors
The small sensors that simple cameras when used at a wide zoom setting almost guarantee that - so long as you can hold the camera still - everything sharp from foreground to background should be sharp. The small sensor and low magnification make for a great 'depth of field' (the range between closest and furthest objects that are acceptably sharp.)
Street Lighting
Most street lighting has too much orange or too much green in it, and it tends to make people look rather ill. Using flash will often produce a healthier looking result.
Long Exposures
Away from the bright lights, you will need to use long exposures to work without flash. If possible, use the camera on a tripod. You can buy small table tripods such as the Ultrapod that fold and fit into a pocket or small bag if you don't want to carry a tripod, and it is often possible to find a wall, car roof or other piece of street furniture on which to stand one. There are also small camera clamps that will fit on lampposts etc.
If you don't have anything to hold the camera still, you can still get sharp images with exposures of several seconds by holding the camera firmly against a solid surface, such as a post or a wall, or in some places even on the ground, looking up. I've often used mine by turning my back on the subject and holding the camera above my head with its back pressed against a wall and of course the lens facing toward the subject.
Some cameras have a special 'long exposure mode' which may reduce noise in long exposures. A 'night' scene mode will probably also be worth trying if your camera has one. The important thing is to find out how to stop the flash firing.
You may need to experiment with the ISO settings and exposure compensation to find the best result. Usually when using a tripod there is no need for a high ISO setting, so I will work perhaps at ISO 100 or 200. But when I took some pictures with my IXUS 400 I found that I needed to set the ISO to its highest level - ISO 400 - and also to set the maximum possible exposure compensation of +2 stops to get long exposures that worked in really low light.
Special Effects
Depending on your camera, it may be possible to get good results using some of the Special Effects, so take a look there for more ideas.
Read the manual or look through the menus and find out:
* how your can turn the flash off
* if there is a special long exposure setting
* if your camera has a 'night' scene mode
* how you can set the ISO speed of the camera
Using Flash
The flash built into simple compact cameras is designed to take pictures from around 3 foot to around 10 foot from your camera. Anything too close will almost certainly be far too bright in the picture, and anything further away is too dark.
When taking pictures, try to keep all important subject matter roughly the same distance from the camera. If you have some people much closer than others, they will look wrong, as they will be lighter than the others.
If your camera has a manual mode, you should be able to adjust the exposure.
This is often called 'exposure compensation'. If your pictures are too dark try adding a positive amount of compensation, if too bright, reduce the amount set. For most pictures on my Ixus 400, I find a setting of -2/3 gives best results, but even if you used the same camera you might prefer another setting.
Flash Outside
Outside at night, the flash will only light up anything close to the camera. If you can alter the ISO speed, you will find that increasing it gives more detail in the background. In brightly lit city streets, I find that working at ISO 400 can produce results that give good flash exposure for people around 6 ft from the camera and also a reasonably bright background.
You don't want the background to be too bright, or it won't really look like a night picture. Take your picture at different ISO values and see which works best.
Working Without Flash
If your camera works at ISO 800 or greater, you can take pictures in brightly lit city streets or interiors without flash. Find the camera setting that switches the flash off. Make sure you keep the camera still (it helps to hold it against something solid if you can) and squeeze the button gently to avoid a jerk.
In low light, the anti-vibration systems built into some cameras help you to get sharp pictures, though any moving people or objects will still blur. Take pictures at the zoom setting that gives the widest angle of view. If you zoom out to get greater magnification it also magnifies any shaking.
Small Sensors
The small sensors that simple cameras when used at a wide zoom setting almost guarantee that - so long as you can hold the camera still - everything sharp from foreground to background should be sharp. The small sensor and low magnification make for a great 'depth of field' (the range between closest and furthest objects that are acceptably sharp.)
Street Lighting
Most street lighting has too much orange or too much green in it, and it tends to make people look rather ill. Using flash will often produce a healthier looking result.
Long Exposures
Away from the bright lights, you will need to use long exposures to work without flash. If possible, use the camera on a tripod. You can buy small table tripods such as the Ultrapod that fold and fit into a pocket or small bag if you don't want to carry a tripod, and it is often possible to find a wall, car roof or other piece of street furniture on which to stand one. There are also small camera clamps that will fit on lampposts etc.
If you don't have anything to hold the camera still, you can still get sharp images with exposures of several seconds by holding the camera firmly against a solid surface, such as a post or a wall, or in some places even on the ground, looking up. I've often used mine by turning my back on the subject and holding the camera above my head with its back pressed against a wall and of course the lens facing toward the subject.
Some cameras have a special 'long exposure mode' which may reduce noise in long exposures. A 'night' scene mode will probably also be worth trying if your camera has one. The important thing is to find out how to stop the flash firing.
You may need to experiment with the ISO settings and exposure compensation to find the best result. Usually when using a tripod there is no need for a high ISO setting, so I will work perhaps at ISO 100 or 200. But when I took some pictures with my IXUS 400 I found that I needed to set the ISO to its highest level - ISO 400 - and also to set the maximum possible exposure compensation of +2 stops to get long exposures that worked in really low light.
Special Effects
Depending on your camera, it may be possible to get good results using some of the Special Effects, so take a look there for more ideas.
Pictures of the Year International 2006
In Spring 1944, the Missouri School of Journalism held its "First Annual Fifty-Print Exhibition" contest for newspaper photography, "to pay tribute to those press photographers and newspapers which, despite tremendous war-time difficulties, are doing a splendid job; to provide an opportunity for photographers of the nation to meet in open competition; and to compile and preserve...a collection of the best in current, home-front press pictures." (as quoted on the POYI web site.)
In 1948, when magazine photographers were also invited to take part it was renamed as the 'News Pictures of the Year Contest'. When in 1957 it was merged with the National Press Photographers Association (NPPA) contest, there was another change of name, with it being simply known as 'Pictures of the Year'.
When the NPPA went its own way in 2001, the contest, again run solely by the Missouri School of Journalism, was renamed Pictures of the Year International (POYI). There is a Pictures of the Year International Foundation and the contest receives financial support from Fujifilm, MSNBC and National Geographic as well as the entrants and anonymous donors. As the name suggests, the entry for the competition is now increasingly from around the world, although particularly dominated in the newspapers and magazines by those from the USA.
As well as newspaper and magazine photojournalism, there are also awards for picture editing, with around 45 categories in all. In most of these there are awards for second and third place as well as the winner, and also often a number of 'awards of excellence', and in POYI63 there were a total of around 170 awards in all, although quite often the same work was awarded in two different categories. Most awards go to individuals, but some are for groups or publications.
At the top of the awards tree are the major honours for Newspaper Photographer of the Year, Magazine Photographer of the Year, the World Understanding Award, the Community Awareness Award, the Angus McDougall Overall Excellence in Editing Award (which, perhaps predictably, went to the New Orleans Times-Picayune) and the Best Use of Photography in Books Award. However to get any of the awards is a great achievement, as the overall standard of work is extremely high.
The work is selected each year by an extremely well qualified panel of judges, all highly respected in their particular areas of photographic expertise. Of course you may feel that they don't always get things quite right, and I've often thought that work which they placed second or third was even better than the winner. However, all of the work that reaches the final stage of the contest is of the highest order, and one of the minor problems I have with competitions such as this is that there is really no way to rank work at this level.
Virtually all of the pictures here make me look at my own work and feel inadequate. But they also make me determined to try harder, and give me fresh ideas and viewpoints to try. In a way the work that inspires me most is often not the kind of work that wins the major news prizes, usually dominated by the great events such as war, famine, earthquake and flood, but the pictures from everyday life, whether taken for a local or regional newspaper or as a project in the World Understanding or Community Awareness sections.
With so many winners and so much work on display, I can't mention everything, but suggest that this is a site that is worth returning to on a number of occasions and browsing through. POYIhas an incredible archive of work with more than 35,000 photographers selected in the years since 1944, and work from the last 9 or so years is currently viewable on line in the site archives, as well as lists of earlier winners.
Newspaper Photographer of the Year
Barbara Davidson of The Dallas Morning News has a great collection of images on line, making her an outstanding winner of this award. As well as 9 fine single images (a fine colour portrait of a Nigerian schoolgirl, a dynamic composition of a Biloxi family sorting through the wreckage of their Katrina-devastated home and other powerful images) there is a black and white essay on people affected by the Asian tsunami, some creative use of light in the coverage of the Pope's funeral, carefully composed square-format black and white images from 'The Ninth Ward' of flood-devastated New Orleans, and another strong black and white essay on Nigerian faith healers.
Todd Heisler of The Rocky Mountain News also has some great work, with a set of portraits of soldiers on their way to Iraq and pictures from there, as well as a story on those breaking the news of deaths to the families back home and some sensitively handled emotion-packed images of the return and funeral of a marine killed in Iraq.
Michael Macor of The San Francisco Chronicle also had great work related to both Katrina and Iraq, including a set of images on the return of a US soldier who had both legs blown off in an explosion in Iraq.
Magazine Photographer of the Year
While the Newspaper of the Year remains an essentially domestic contest (I'm not sure why this should be so) the Magazine Photographer is truly international. All three of the winners were freelances, and their portfolios contained much of the most outstanding work of the competition
I've written briefly before about Tamas Dezso, born in Budapest, Hungary in 1978, whose essays on Hungarian Horseracing and Young Upstarts were two of the highlights of last year's POYI. This year his work from Romania, Hungary and Bosnia is again superb and this time it has been awarded the recognition it deserves. Superb moody colour, and powerfully seen black and white images.
Marcus Bleasdale, a British freelance based in London, and winner of the Magazine Photographer of the Year award in 2005, has a powerful essay on street kids in Kinshasa, as well as work on the damage to people and ecology from the Chad-Cameroon oil pipeline and the war against the Maoists in Nepal.
Italian photographer Massimo Mastrorillo (b1961) showed work from his Indonesia 2005: Just Another Day (2005), at the Noorderlicht Photofestival in 2005 in 2005. His work from Mozambique shows the problems caused there by IMF / World Bank imposed economic restructuring. There is some fine black and white work both in this and the further essay on HIV in the country, with superb use of light and shadows and framing. His images from Albania and Poland are equally powerful, making excellent use of both square and panoramic formats in what is some of the best black and white work I've seen for quite a while.
In 1948, when magazine photographers were also invited to take part it was renamed as the 'News Pictures of the Year Contest'. When in 1957 it was merged with the National Press Photographers Association (NPPA) contest, there was another change of name, with it being simply known as 'Pictures of the Year'.
When the NPPA went its own way in 2001, the contest, again run solely by the Missouri School of Journalism, was renamed Pictures of the Year International (POYI). There is a Pictures of the Year International Foundation and the contest receives financial support from Fujifilm, MSNBC and National Geographic as well as the entrants and anonymous donors. As the name suggests, the entry for the competition is now increasingly from around the world, although particularly dominated in the newspapers and magazines by those from the USA.
As well as newspaper and magazine photojournalism, there are also awards for picture editing, with around 45 categories in all. In most of these there are awards for second and third place as well as the winner, and also often a number of 'awards of excellence', and in POYI63 there were a total of around 170 awards in all, although quite often the same work was awarded in two different categories. Most awards go to individuals, but some are for groups or publications.
At the top of the awards tree are the major honours for Newspaper Photographer of the Year, Magazine Photographer of the Year, the World Understanding Award, the Community Awareness Award, the Angus McDougall Overall Excellence in Editing Award (which, perhaps predictably, went to the New Orleans Times-Picayune) and the Best Use of Photography in Books Award. However to get any of the awards is a great achievement, as the overall standard of work is extremely high.
The work is selected each year by an extremely well qualified panel of judges, all highly respected in their particular areas of photographic expertise. Of course you may feel that they don't always get things quite right, and I've often thought that work which they placed second or third was even better than the winner. However, all of the work that reaches the final stage of the contest is of the highest order, and one of the minor problems I have with competitions such as this is that there is really no way to rank work at this level.
Virtually all of the pictures here make me look at my own work and feel inadequate. But they also make me determined to try harder, and give me fresh ideas and viewpoints to try. In a way the work that inspires me most is often not the kind of work that wins the major news prizes, usually dominated by the great events such as war, famine, earthquake and flood, but the pictures from everyday life, whether taken for a local or regional newspaper or as a project in the World Understanding or Community Awareness sections.
With so many winners and so much work on display, I can't mention everything, but suggest that this is a site that is worth returning to on a number of occasions and browsing through. POYIhas an incredible archive of work with more than 35,000 photographers selected in the years since 1944, and work from the last 9 or so years is currently viewable on line in the site archives, as well as lists of earlier winners.
Newspaper Photographer of the Year
Barbara Davidson of The Dallas Morning News has a great collection of images on line, making her an outstanding winner of this award. As well as 9 fine single images (a fine colour portrait of a Nigerian schoolgirl, a dynamic composition of a Biloxi family sorting through the wreckage of their Katrina-devastated home and other powerful images) there is a black and white essay on people affected by the Asian tsunami, some creative use of light in the coverage of the Pope's funeral, carefully composed square-format black and white images from 'The Ninth Ward' of flood-devastated New Orleans, and another strong black and white essay on Nigerian faith healers.
Todd Heisler of The Rocky Mountain News also has some great work, with a set of portraits of soldiers on their way to Iraq and pictures from there, as well as a story on those breaking the news of deaths to the families back home and some sensitively handled emotion-packed images of the return and funeral of a marine killed in Iraq.
Michael Macor of The San Francisco Chronicle also had great work related to both Katrina and Iraq, including a set of images on the return of a US soldier who had both legs blown off in an explosion in Iraq.
Magazine Photographer of the Year
While the Newspaper of the Year remains an essentially domestic contest (I'm not sure why this should be so) the Magazine Photographer is truly international. All three of the winners were freelances, and their portfolios contained much of the most outstanding work of the competition
I've written briefly before about Tamas Dezso, born in Budapest, Hungary in 1978, whose essays on Hungarian Horseracing and Young Upstarts were two of the highlights of last year's POYI. This year his work from Romania, Hungary and Bosnia is again superb and this time it has been awarded the recognition it deserves. Superb moody colour, and powerfully seen black and white images.
Marcus Bleasdale, a British freelance based in London, and winner of the Magazine Photographer of the Year award in 2005, has a powerful essay on street kids in Kinshasa, as well as work on the damage to people and ecology from the Chad-Cameroon oil pipeline and the war against the Maoists in Nepal.
Italian photographer Massimo Mastrorillo (b1961) showed work from his Indonesia 2005: Just Another Day (2005), at the Noorderlicht Photofestival in 2005 in 2005. His work from Mozambique shows the problems caused there by IMF / World Bank imposed economic restructuring. There is some fine black and white work both in this and the further essay on HIV in the country, with superb use of light and shadows and framing. His images from Albania and Poland are equally powerful, making excellent use of both square and panoramic formats in what is some of the best black and white work I've seen for quite a while.
Wednesday, December 27, 2006
Make Black and White Photographs from your Digital Camera
Free Ways to Great Black & White
The Power of Black and White
Black and white photography concentrates your mind on certain aspects of your subject - shape, form, tones and light. Although color can often help to invoke mood and emotional states, there is something more visceral, more tactile, more primitive and more powerful about seeing in black and white.
The Eye and Color
We experience the world around us as color, but actually we mainly see in black and white. Most of the retina at the back of our eye is made up of 'rods', which can't distinguish color (and hardly notice red at all.) We distinguish red and green with a relatively small number of 'cones' found only in the small central area of the retina; roughly 2/3 of these detect red light, and 1/3 green. Blue is handled by even fewer cones, spread out around the rest of the retina among the rods.
Our brains produce color vision mainly using black and white information.
In low light, we lose color vision completely, as signals come only from the more sensitive rods. Given all this, it is hardly surprising that black and white images retain a special significance.
Cultural Signals
We are also cultural beings, and black and white gathered considerable cultural meaning from the hundred years or more it was the only or the dominant mode of photography, whether in the domestic or wider sphere. It was only in the 1950s and 1960s that color began to be common both in family snapshots and the media. 20 years or so later it was recognised as a viable artistic choice for photographers, with 'The New Color Photography', though photographers had been using color for years.
Once color had arrived, black and white seemed old-fashioned, and people rushed to replace Box Brownies with cameras were more suited to color film, and throwing out black and white TVs for the new color models. But their remained a huge reservoir of black and white photography of great events - wars, disasters and happier occasions - and together with the continuing use of black and white in newspapers (until recent years) this gave black and white a seriousness as the medium of record which color has only recently begun to challenge.
Many photographers still occasionally like to put a roll of a favorite black and white film - perhaps Kodak Tri-X or Ilford XP2 - into a 'real' camera and go out to take pictures. But for most of us it is usually much easier to use a digital camera and convert the color images it takes to black and white.
Your Camera in Black and White
Most digital cameras have a 'black and white' mode, but none actually take pictures in black and white. They produce pictures in color, then simply throw away the color information. The results often disappoint.
For a better result, you can shoot in color, then use your computer to convert to black and white; there you can tben see the different possibilities and select the best. And you can do it for nothing.
Free & Simple Ways to Black and White Picasa
Picasa is great free software for looking after your digital images and sharing them. You can read more about it the Picasa review, and download it from Google. If you open the software and double click any one of your images, it opens in the Edit window. Select Effects, and you can then choose from B/W, Sepia and Filtered B/W. The most interesting is the Filtered B/W. Click on the button for 'Choose a color' and then slowly move your mouse around the color picker window that appears and watch how your image changes. You can darken blue skies by moving into the orange and red areas, lighten any particular color by moving to it.
Above the main color picker are a set of color hexagons representing the typical color filters that black and white photographers sometimes used, although there doesn't seem any good reason to limit yourself to these.
Once you have found the color that gives the best rendering of your images, just click on it. You can then choose to apply the effect and return to your image library.
Once you have seen the different ways you can convert an image you will probably never want to leave it to chance and your camera again.
Irfanview
Irfanview is a great program for viewing and simple editing of images, and is free for non-commercial use.
It doesn't really have a great deal to offer for black and white conversion on its own, but does have the ability to use some (not all) Photoshop Plugins, which can make it very useful.
Irfanview offers two ways to convert images to black and white, and these also make clear the difference between what black and white means to photographers and computer people. Black and White film is an analogue medium, capable of producing many different shades of grey between black and white. On computers we always deal with digital files, and to get images that look like black and white photographs needs a reasonably large number of possible shades.
On a computer, black and white is used to mean just that - a system that can have only black or white. This means each pixel (element of the picture) has only two possible values, which can be represented in a single bit as 0 or 1. It is possible to get the effect of different shades by using patterns of pixels - which is how inkjets, laser printers and newspapers produce black and white images.
Most photographs on computer systems are stored as jpeg images. These allow 256 grey shades including white and black, enough to show most photographs at least as well as photographic printing. You can have files with just these 256 shades (greyscale jpeg) but most actually use the normal jpeg RGB format in which these 256 shades are part of the 16 million possible colors.
In Irfanview, the you can convert to grayscale to show your pictures as 256 color images. You can also see the poster-like high contrast effect of a black and white conversion, by using Image, Decrease color depth, and choosing 2 colors. The images on this page show the obvious difference.
The Power of Black and White
Black and white photography concentrates your mind on certain aspects of your subject - shape, form, tones and light. Although color can often help to invoke mood and emotional states, there is something more visceral, more tactile, more primitive and more powerful about seeing in black and white.
The Eye and Color
We experience the world around us as color, but actually we mainly see in black and white. Most of the retina at the back of our eye is made up of 'rods', which can't distinguish color (and hardly notice red at all.) We distinguish red and green with a relatively small number of 'cones' found only in the small central area of the retina; roughly 2/3 of these detect red light, and 1/3 green. Blue is handled by even fewer cones, spread out around the rest of the retina among the rods.
Our brains produce color vision mainly using black and white information.
In low light, we lose color vision completely, as signals come only from the more sensitive rods. Given all this, it is hardly surprising that black and white images retain a special significance.
Cultural Signals
We are also cultural beings, and black and white gathered considerable cultural meaning from the hundred years or more it was the only or the dominant mode of photography, whether in the domestic or wider sphere. It was only in the 1950s and 1960s that color began to be common both in family snapshots and the media. 20 years or so later it was recognised as a viable artistic choice for photographers, with 'The New Color Photography', though photographers had been using color for years.
Once color had arrived, black and white seemed old-fashioned, and people rushed to replace Box Brownies with cameras were more suited to color film, and throwing out black and white TVs for the new color models. But their remained a huge reservoir of black and white photography of great events - wars, disasters and happier occasions - and together with the continuing use of black and white in newspapers (until recent years) this gave black and white a seriousness as the medium of record which color has only recently begun to challenge.
Many photographers still occasionally like to put a roll of a favorite black and white film - perhaps Kodak Tri-X or Ilford XP2 - into a 'real' camera and go out to take pictures. But for most of us it is usually much easier to use a digital camera and convert the color images it takes to black and white.
Your Camera in Black and White
Most digital cameras have a 'black and white' mode, but none actually take pictures in black and white. They produce pictures in color, then simply throw away the color information. The results often disappoint.
For a better result, you can shoot in color, then use your computer to convert to black and white; there you can tben see the different possibilities and select the best. And you can do it for nothing.
Free & Simple Ways to Black and White Picasa
Picasa is great free software for looking after your digital images and sharing them. You can read more about it the Picasa review, and download it from Google. If you open the software and double click any one of your images, it opens in the Edit window. Select Effects, and you can then choose from B/W, Sepia and Filtered B/W. The most interesting is the Filtered B/W. Click on the button for 'Choose a color' and then slowly move your mouse around the color picker window that appears and watch how your image changes. You can darken blue skies by moving into the orange and red areas, lighten any particular color by moving to it.
Above the main color picker are a set of color hexagons representing the typical color filters that black and white photographers sometimes used, although there doesn't seem any good reason to limit yourself to these.
Once you have found the color that gives the best rendering of your images, just click on it. You can then choose to apply the effect and return to your image library.
Once you have seen the different ways you can convert an image you will probably never want to leave it to chance and your camera again.
Irfanview
Irfanview is a great program for viewing and simple editing of images, and is free for non-commercial use.
It doesn't really have a great deal to offer for black and white conversion on its own, but does have the ability to use some (not all) Photoshop Plugins, which can make it very useful.
Irfanview offers two ways to convert images to black and white, and these also make clear the difference between what black and white means to photographers and computer people. Black and White film is an analogue medium, capable of producing many different shades of grey between black and white. On computers we always deal with digital files, and to get images that look like black and white photographs needs a reasonably large number of possible shades.
On a computer, black and white is used to mean just that - a system that can have only black or white. This means each pixel (element of the picture) has only two possible values, which can be represented in a single bit as 0 or 1. It is possible to get the effect of different shades by using patterns of pixels - which is how inkjets, laser printers and newspapers produce black and white images.
Most photographs on computer systems are stored as jpeg images. These allow 256 grey shades including white and black, enough to show most photographs at least as well as photographic printing. You can have files with just these 256 shades (greyscale jpeg) but most actually use the normal jpeg RGB format in which these 256 shades are part of the 16 million possible colors.
In Irfanview, the you can convert to grayscale to show your pictures as 256 color images. You can also see the poster-like high contrast effect of a black and white conversion, by using Image, Decrease color depth, and choosing 2 colors. The images on this page show the obvious difference.
Digital cameras signal change for profession photography
Digital cameras and photo processing technology could signal changing times for professional photographers, and some in New Hampshire are switching strategies, while others are closing up shop.
Rita Barrett, 42, owner of Merrimack Photo will close her business next year after six years in business.
"I really believe I have it in me, my prices are very good and I do work hard," said Barrett, 42, "But you can't be competitive with the prices out there."
Barrett shoots wedding photos, portraits and provides services for touch-ups and restorations, and says that she has many loyal clients, but fewer clients coming to her.
She says she has been flexible with her pricing models -- charging 30 cents for a 4 x 6 inch print -- in an effort to attract repeat customers, however the ubiquity and expediency of the digital age have made it tough to compete -- amateur photographers can now go to CVS and get a 4 x 6 inch print from a kiosk in seconds for 19 cents.
Barrett says that some professional photographers have worked to cut costs by simply handing their clients a compact disk with the photo shoot of their son or daughter written on it, and she thinks that the profession has suffered for it.
"When you have it on CD and give it to them, that's not a finished product," she said. "That's definitely part of the problem, there are a lot of photos on desktops that never get printed."
Out of the darkroom
Professional photogra-phers for years worked with 35mm cameras and darkroom photo processing, using a light to project the negatives onto photo-paper and then moving that paper through developing, bleaching and fixing baths.
The processing time could take days, depending on if photographers had their own darkroom or the photos were sent out to labs, and photographers were largely valued on trust that they had gotten the shots.
The digital age changed everything, and meant that photographers needed to become lab workers with darkrooms built into their computers. In the fast track age of photography, professional shutterbugs were competing with instant and often self-processing photo labs.
Barrett purchased a printer that transferred digital information from the computer onto photo paper and took the prints through the developing, bleaching and fixing baths. The machine was costly and she paid it off over several years.
"I was looking into equipment, I knew that was coming," she said. "I did buy into digital."
In Amherst
Ken Smith, who opened the Golden Times Studio in Amherst in 2003, did not invest in a high-tech photo lab. He continues to send out his digital shots to a photo-processing lab, a process that can take as long as a week and which his customers "are willing to accept."
Smith brings a laptop out on his photo shoots, however, eliminating the hemming and hawing that customers go through while they wait to see if their shots were good ones. After he completes a shoot with the family, he sits down with them at the laptop and gives them editorial power to select the pictures they want to buy.
"You put pictures up on a 42-inch plasma screen, and sit down with them on a couch with a soda, and you do a better job when you get their input," he said. "They are helping to tell the story."
Cameras for all
The digital age has put cameras in many more hands -- Best Buy is currently selling online a Kodak 5.0 mega-pixel camera for $109 (with free next-day shipping) -- making amateur photographers out of nearly everyone.
The top of the line digital cameras can run into the thousands, often more than the premiere 35mm cameras did in their day, however they provide the same settings -- F stop settings to adjust the diameter of the aperture and settings to adjust the duration of the exposure -- and instant feedback with savings on darkroom costs.
Barrett said that even the cheapest digital cameras are instructive, enabling amateurs to set goals and get immediate feedback, learning with the aid of the digital screen, just how they need to make adjustments for lighting and other variables.
"Digital teaches people to take better pictures because they can see them right away," she said.
Learning
She said, however, that it can take years to develop procedural skills, sense of place and timing that separates professionals and amateurs.
"Wedding photographers get paid a lot of money because they are a photographer and not just someone who shows up with a camera," she said. "You have to know what shots to take, and find them within that background in a very short amount of time -- there is no time to say, let me think this out, and there are no second chances."
Barrett says that photographers have skills that ensure that they will survive the digital age, and especially those who can find their niche, such as wedding photography. Barrett says she would have continued if her husband wasn't called to Iraq, leaving three children behind . To be successful in the current market, a photographer needs to work six to seven days, she said.
A niche in the industry
To compete with a consumer industry that makes digital cameras available to all at relatively low costs, photographers are learning to specialize their services.
Ken Smith of Golden Times Studios is currently looking into portrait services that are geared toward special needs children.
Justin Cross opened Cross Photography in Merrimack in 2002 before moving the business to Manchester. Cross specializes in commercial industrial, high tech and medical manufacturing photography.
"Corporations tend to come back; they have repeat business," he said, noting that business has been steady. "It goes right along with the rest of the economy."
The commercial photography he shoots for brochures and trade publications, can often take "several hours to set up and shoot," requiring professional skills, albeit different from the mastery of place and timing needed to get spontaneous wedding shots.
Cross processes the pictures himself on his computer and produces a compact disk from those shoots that goes "directly to a printer chosen by the client," with the client making a separate payment to the printer.
The ubiquity of digital cameras, home printers and self-processing kiosks has meant a roller coaster ride for developers and printers as well in recent years.
In Milford
Lisa Peterson, owner of Photos Plus, a photo developer in Milford for the past 20 years, said, "The industry itself peaked in 2002 or 2003. It then bottomed in 2005 and 2006 and there was a double-digit decline in overall pictures printed at retailers."
Photo Plus subsequently merged with Herb Martin, the former owner of Photographix of Nashua, who closed his doors this spring after 20 years in business. The two now operate under the name Photos Plus at the old location at the intersection of 101 and 101A in Milford.
Commercial work
Martin wanted to concentrate on "large commercial customers" and through the merger, the two companies "now work with more professional photographers in southern New Hampshire than anyone."
Peterson said, "consumers in general are transitioning from film to digital.
In the early part of that transition consumers did not print as much or as often or they tried to print at home."
Photos Plus adapted by merging with Photographics, opening a Web site, citing statistics from the Photo Marketing Association, that show online digital print orders grew by 154 percent over the last year
The company also began gearing their services toward professional photographers, and recently purchased a printer for $200,000.
Peterson said that, "with this printer we can match or beat the quality anywhere in the country. But it is people. Making these adjustments takes a photo lab technician with years of experience and an eye for color," she added.
"The drug stores and super stores just press print and walk away."
Those changes enabled the company to expand, when the industry went on the decline, and Photo Plus "sales have grown by over 20 percent from last year and our orders received through our Web site have probably doubled or tripled."
Rita Barrett, 42, owner of Merrimack Photo will close her business next year after six years in business.
"I really believe I have it in me, my prices are very good and I do work hard," said Barrett, 42, "But you can't be competitive with the prices out there."
Barrett shoots wedding photos, portraits and provides services for touch-ups and restorations, and says that she has many loyal clients, but fewer clients coming to her.
She says she has been flexible with her pricing models -- charging 30 cents for a 4 x 6 inch print -- in an effort to attract repeat customers, however the ubiquity and expediency of the digital age have made it tough to compete -- amateur photographers can now go to CVS and get a 4 x 6 inch print from a kiosk in seconds for 19 cents.
Barrett says that some professional photographers have worked to cut costs by simply handing their clients a compact disk with the photo shoot of their son or daughter written on it, and she thinks that the profession has suffered for it.
"When you have it on CD and give it to them, that's not a finished product," she said. "That's definitely part of the problem, there are a lot of photos on desktops that never get printed."
Out of the darkroom
Professional photogra-phers for years worked with 35mm cameras and darkroom photo processing, using a light to project the negatives onto photo-paper and then moving that paper through developing, bleaching and fixing baths.
The processing time could take days, depending on if photographers had their own darkroom or the photos were sent out to labs, and photographers were largely valued on trust that they had gotten the shots.
The digital age changed everything, and meant that photographers needed to become lab workers with darkrooms built into their computers. In the fast track age of photography, professional shutterbugs were competing with instant and often self-processing photo labs.
Barrett purchased a printer that transferred digital information from the computer onto photo paper and took the prints through the developing, bleaching and fixing baths. The machine was costly and she paid it off over several years.
"I was looking into equipment, I knew that was coming," she said. "I did buy into digital."
In Amherst
Ken Smith, who opened the Golden Times Studio in Amherst in 2003, did not invest in a high-tech photo lab. He continues to send out his digital shots to a photo-processing lab, a process that can take as long as a week and which his customers "are willing to accept."
Smith brings a laptop out on his photo shoots, however, eliminating the hemming and hawing that customers go through while they wait to see if their shots were good ones. After he completes a shoot with the family, he sits down with them at the laptop and gives them editorial power to select the pictures they want to buy.
"You put pictures up on a 42-inch plasma screen, and sit down with them on a couch with a soda, and you do a better job when you get their input," he said. "They are helping to tell the story."
Cameras for all
The digital age has put cameras in many more hands -- Best Buy is currently selling online a Kodak 5.0 mega-pixel camera for $109 (with free next-day shipping) -- making amateur photographers out of nearly everyone.
The top of the line digital cameras can run into the thousands, often more than the premiere 35mm cameras did in their day, however they provide the same settings -- F stop settings to adjust the diameter of the aperture and settings to adjust the duration of the exposure -- and instant feedback with savings on darkroom costs.
Barrett said that even the cheapest digital cameras are instructive, enabling amateurs to set goals and get immediate feedback, learning with the aid of the digital screen, just how they need to make adjustments for lighting and other variables.
"Digital teaches people to take better pictures because they can see them right away," she said.
Learning
She said, however, that it can take years to develop procedural skills, sense of place and timing that separates professionals and amateurs.
"Wedding photographers get paid a lot of money because they are a photographer and not just someone who shows up with a camera," she said. "You have to know what shots to take, and find them within that background in a very short amount of time -- there is no time to say, let me think this out, and there are no second chances."
Barrett says that photographers have skills that ensure that they will survive the digital age, and especially those who can find their niche, such as wedding photography. Barrett says she would have continued if her husband wasn't called to Iraq, leaving three children behind . To be successful in the current market, a photographer needs to work six to seven days, she said.
A niche in the industry
To compete with a consumer industry that makes digital cameras available to all at relatively low costs, photographers are learning to specialize their services.
Ken Smith of Golden Times Studios is currently looking into portrait services that are geared toward special needs children.
Justin Cross opened Cross Photography in Merrimack in 2002 before moving the business to Manchester. Cross specializes in commercial industrial, high tech and medical manufacturing photography.
"Corporations tend to come back; they have repeat business," he said, noting that business has been steady. "It goes right along with the rest of the economy."
The commercial photography he shoots for brochures and trade publications, can often take "several hours to set up and shoot," requiring professional skills, albeit different from the mastery of place and timing needed to get spontaneous wedding shots.
Cross processes the pictures himself on his computer and produces a compact disk from those shoots that goes "directly to a printer chosen by the client," with the client making a separate payment to the printer.
The ubiquity of digital cameras, home printers and self-processing kiosks has meant a roller coaster ride for developers and printers as well in recent years.
In Milford
Lisa Peterson, owner of Photos Plus, a photo developer in Milford for the past 20 years, said, "The industry itself peaked in 2002 or 2003. It then bottomed in 2005 and 2006 and there was a double-digit decline in overall pictures printed at retailers."
Photo Plus subsequently merged with Herb Martin, the former owner of Photographix of Nashua, who closed his doors this spring after 20 years in business. The two now operate under the name Photos Plus at the old location at the intersection of 101 and 101A in Milford.
Commercial work
Martin wanted to concentrate on "large commercial customers" and through the merger, the two companies "now work with more professional photographers in southern New Hampshire than anyone."
Peterson said, "consumers in general are transitioning from film to digital.
In the early part of that transition consumers did not print as much or as often or they tried to print at home."
Photos Plus adapted by merging with Photographics, opening a Web site, citing statistics from the Photo Marketing Association, that show online digital print orders grew by 154 percent over the last year
The company also began gearing their services toward professional photographers, and recently purchased a printer for $200,000.
Peterson said that, "with this printer we can match or beat the quality anywhere in the country. But it is people. Making these adjustments takes a photo lab technician with years of experience and an eye for color," she added.
"The drug stores and super stores just press print and walk away."
Those changes enabled the company to expand, when the industry went on the decline, and Photo Plus "sales have grown by over 20 percent from last year and our orders received through our Web site have probably doubled or tripled."
Starting Architectural Photography
The attractions of architecture
Architecture has many attractions for the new photographer. Buildings don't usually move much, are generally fairly easy to find and will seldom complain when you try to take a picture - or at the results. However it's main attraction has to be an interest in the built environment. We all live in buldings, most of us work in them, see them every day.
Despite this, buildings are difficult to photograph well, presenting a number of challenges that make life interesting for the photographer. It is often very hard to produce exciting images that make your work stand out from other people.
Technically it can also be a demanding area. Professional photographers of architecture usually work with medium or large-format cameras, producing work of high technical quality. With a 35mm camera you cannot hope to equal this, but you can certainly produce respectable images, and may well have the advantage of a wider choice of focal lengths giving more precise framing.
This feature will look at the subject for people with an interest in photographing buildings using ordinary photo equipment, whether film or digital. However it will at times mention the increased potential of professional equipment.
Cameras for architecture
Professionals generally prefer to use technical cameras taking 4x5" or 6x9cm images. These are large cameras that take some getting used to, and film costs are high. Their great advantage is in having camera movements, but the down side is that this makes them slower and more difficult to use.
In a normal camera body, the lens is mounted so its axis is perpendicular to the film and at its centre. For photographing buildings it is mainly used with the camera held level on a tripod. If the camera is tilted up (or down), then the vertical walls of the building start to converge towards the top of the picture (bottom if tilted down.)
Occasionally such converging verticals add excitement and interest to a picture, but more usually they simply look wrong. For normal building images we are used to seeing verticals kept upright.
Assuming that you are not going to make the step immediately to professional equipment, the best camera for the relative beginner is a 35mm SLR. However you can take good pictures of buildings with any camera.
Tripods and lenses
Other desirable equipment would be a good tripod - as large and as heavy as you want to carry - and zoom or fixed focal length lenses to cover from extreme wide-angle to a reasonable telephoto. In 35mm terms, the most useful focal lengths are from 20mm to 200mm. You can still make good pictures with only a standard lens, but your options are more limited. Wide apertures are seldom needed, but it is vital to have lenses with little or no pin-cushion or barrel distortion, as this is very apparent on the straight lines of many buildings. In general, zoom lenses are more likely to show unacceptable distortion than fixed focal lengths.
Although there are advantages in using an SLR camera, some of the best lenses I've used for their overall sharpness and also good drawing with little or noe distortion have been made for the Leica M. There are good SLR lenses as well, but if you want to do much architectural photography, test any lens if possible before you buy, shooting a building with a good grid of straight lines more or less full frame. Either make a large print or project the image with an enlarger and put a ruler on these lines, espwecially those that go near the edge of the frame. If there is more than a mm or so of a gap in the middle between ruler and line it will probably show on your pictures.
Tripods are something photographers tend to both love and hate. They certainly can be a pain to carry. Good tripods need to be strongly made to hold the camera entirely firm; most are normally now made of aluminium, which is a fairly light metal, but will still weigh four or five pounds or more. Cheap lighter tripods usually either lack sufficient height for many shots or are not solid enough when extended. You can cut weight by using materials such as carbon fibre, but this makes them more expensive. A good tripod head makes using a camera on a tripod much more pleasant. The heads that come with most cheap tripods are barely adequate and seldom particularly easy to use.
Look for a tripod that is usable up to around 5 foot from the ground or more. Don't rely on the specification, set it up in the store and try it at this height and see if it is firm. If it relies on a long centre column to get the height it probably won't be. Most tripod heads are of the 'pan and tilt' or 'ball and socket' type. Cheaper tripods almost always have an integral pan and tilt type, while expensive tripods usually allow you a choice of heads. Most who have tried the more expensive ball types prefer them for still cameras, but cheap versions tend to be unreliable.
If you want to be able to make panoramic photographs by stitching together a number of shots, a head which incorporares a panoramic scale is worth considering; however good ones are extremely expensive. More generally useful for architectural work is a head with built in spirit levels.
Cable Release and Mirror Lock
As well as the tripod, you will also need a cable release so that you can take a picture without having to push the shutter button. The time-release feature of most cameras can also be used, but this doesn't allow you to control precisely when the picture will be taken. With SLR cameras on a tripod, you can also make use of the ability to lock up the mirror to reduce vibration from its movement if your camera has this facility.
Eye-piece leaks
Some SLR cameras can give incorrect exposure in bright light if you take a picture without your eye blocking out the viewfinder. It's a piece of inexplicably poor design present on some of the most expensive cameras. I remember my disgust at first discovering this, unpacking the camera which had just cost be a small fortune and finding a small plastic bag with a black rectangle of plastic for use in these circumstances. Of course, within a week or two I'd lost it, and now carry a short length of black adhesive tape stuck on the camera body ready for use Choose your subject
It is a great idea to start by deciding which building you want to photograph (rather than simply happening to come across something you like the look of and doing it.) Make your photography a deliberate and thought out event. The best choice is something interesting and reasonably local, so you will be able to visit it on several occasions.
Architecture has many attractions for the new photographer. Buildings don't usually move much, are generally fairly easy to find and will seldom complain when you try to take a picture - or at the results. However it's main attraction has to be an interest in the built environment. We all live in buldings, most of us work in them, see them every day.
Despite this, buildings are difficult to photograph well, presenting a number of challenges that make life interesting for the photographer. It is often very hard to produce exciting images that make your work stand out from other people.
Technically it can also be a demanding area. Professional photographers of architecture usually work with medium or large-format cameras, producing work of high technical quality. With a 35mm camera you cannot hope to equal this, but you can certainly produce respectable images, and may well have the advantage of a wider choice of focal lengths giving more precise framing.
This feature will look at the subject for people with an interest in photographing buildings using ordinary photo equipment, whether film or digital. However it will at times mention the increased potential of professional equipment.
Cameras for architecture
Professionals generally prefer to use technical cameras taking 4x5" or 6x9cm images. These are large cameras that take some getting used to, and film costs are high. Their great advantage is in having camera movements, but the down side is that this makes them slower and more difficult to use.
In a normal camera body, the lens is mounted so its axis is perpendicular to the film and at its centre. For photographing buildings it is mainly used with the camera held level on a tripod. If the camera is tilted up (or down), then the vertical walls of the building start to converge towards the top of the picture (bottom if tilted down.)
Occasionally such converging verticals add excitement and interest to a picture, but more usually they simply look wrong. For normal building images we are used to seeing verticals kept upright.
Assuming that you are not going to make the step immediately to professional equipment, the best camera for the relative beginner is a 35mm SLR. However you can take good pictures of buildings with any camera.
Tripods and lenses
Other desirable equipment would be a good tripod - as large and as heavy as you want to carry - and zoom or fixed focal length lenses to cover from extreme wide-angle to a reasonable telephoto. In 35mm terms, the most useful focal lengths are from 20mm to 200mm. You can still make good pictures with only a standard lens, but your options are more limited. Wide apertures are seldom needed, but it is vital to have lenses with little or no pin-cushion or barrel distortion, as this is very apparent on the straight lines of many buildings. In general, zoom lenses are more likely to show unacceptable distortion than fixed focal lengths.
Although there are advantages in using an SLR camera, some of the best lenses I've used for their overall sharpness and also good drawing with little or noe distortion have been made for the Leica M. There are good SLR lenses as well, but if you want to do much architectural photography, test any lens if possible before you buy, shooting a building with a good grid of straight lines more or less full frame. Either make a large print or project the image with an enlarger and put a ruler on these lines, espwecially those that go near the edge of the frame. If there is more than a mm or so of a gap in the middle between ruler and line it will probably show on your pictures.
Tripods are something photographers tend to both love and hate. They certainly can be a pain to carry. Good tripods need to be strongly made to hold the camera entirely firm; most are normally now made of aluminium, which is a fairly light metal, but will still weigh four or five pounds or more. Cheap lighter tripods usually either lack sufficient height for many shots or are not solid enough when extended. You can cut weight by using materials such as carbon fibre, but this makes them more expensive. A good tripod head makes using a camera on a tripod much more pleasant. The heads that come with most cheap tripods are barely adequate and seldom particularly easy to use.
Look for a tripod that is usable up to around 5 foot from the ground or more. Don't rely on the specification, set it up in the store and try it at this height and see if it is firm. If it relies on a long centre column to get the height it probably won't be. Most tripod heads are of the 'pan and tilt' or 'ball and socket' type. Cheaper tripods almost always have an integral pan and tilt type, while expensive tripods usually allow you a choice of heads. Most who have tried the more expensive ball types prefer them for still cameras, but cheap versions tend to be unreliable.
If you want to be able to make panoramic photographs by stitching together a number of shots, a head which incorporares a panoramic scale is worth considering; however good ones are extremely expensive. More generally useful for architectural work is a head with built in spirit levels.
Cable Release and Mirror Lock
As well as the tripod, you will also need a cable release so that you can take a picture without having to push the shutter button. The time-release feature of most cameras can also be used, but this doesn't allow you to control precisely when the picture will be taken. With SLR cameras on a tripod, you can also make use of the ability to lock up the mirror to reduce vibration from its movement if your camera has this facility.
Eye-piece leaks
Some SLR cameras can give incorrect exposure in bright light if you take a picture without your eye blocking out the viewfinder. It's a piece of inexplicably poor design present on some of the most expensive cameras. I remember my disgust at first discovering this, unpacking the camera which had just cost be a small fortune and finding a small plastic bag with a black rectangle of plastic for use in these circumstances. Of course, within a week or two I'd lost it, and now carry a short length of black adhesive tape stuck on the camera body ready for use Choose your subject
It is a great idea to start by deciding which building you want to photograph (rather than simply happening to come across something you like the look of and doing it.) Make your photography a deliberate and thought out event. The best choice is something interesting and reasonably local, so you will be able to visit it on several occasions.
Friday, December 22, 2006
Exhibit surveys folk sculpture
one of the leading modernist sculptors of the first half of the 20th century, is the subject of a new exhibit at the Frick Art Museum, Frick Art & Historical Center. Entitled "Elie Nadelman: Classical Folk," the exhibit features more than 90 works focusing on the American phase of the artist's career, from 1914 until his death in 1946. During this time Nadelman arrived at his synthesis of forms inspired by such divergent sources as classical sculpture, folk art and popular theater.
The selection of more than 75 sculptures and 20 related drawings is representative of virtually all the major subjects, stylistic innovations and media the artist explored during his years in America. In addition to such celebrated images as "Man in the Open Air," "Hostess," "Orchestra Conductor" and "Dancer," the exhibit includes rarely seen works produced at the end of Nadelman's career. The exhibit is organized thematically into "Classicism," "Folk Art," "Dancers and Performers" and "Modern Life."
According to Danforth P. Fales, director of the Frick, "Nadelman's extraordinary ability to draw inspiration from the past as well as the present, from `highbrow' to `lowbrow' art, from classical statuary to Cigar Store Indians, helped forge a new way of thinking about and making art in the United States."
The selection of more than 75 sculptures and 20 related drawings is representative of virtually all the major subjects, stylistic innovations and media the artist explored during his years in America. In addition to such celebrated images as "Man in the Open Air," "Hostess," "Orchestra Conductor" and "Dancer," the exhibit includes rarely seen works produced at the end of Nadelman's career. The exhibit is organized thematically into "Classicism," "Folk Art," "Dancers and Performers" and "Modern Life."
According to Danforth P. Fales, director of the Frick, "Nadelman's extraordinary ability to draw inspiration from the past as well as the present, from `highbrow' to `lowbrow' art, from classical statuary to Cigar Store Indians, helped forge a new way of thinking about and making art in the United States."
Print market grows & changes, according to POP survey - Perspectives on Printing - Polling Data - Statistical Data Included
The 2001 Art Business News Perspectives on Printing (POP) Survey, an in-depth survey of the sale of prints at more than 500 galleries nationwide, has uncovered a variety of revealing trends about the market.
The survey has been on hiatus since 1998, but in the interim, several significant trends have emerged. In general, galleries are carrying more limited- and open-edition prints, and the number of galleries carrying open-edition prints has increased. As in the 1998 survey, galleries continue to sell lithographs more than any other type of print. However, the industry is feeling the impact of giclee printing, which is the leading type of print galleries have added to their mix of art offerings.
Landscapes remain the top-selling subject for galleries, and Realism remains the top-selling style, outpacing the next-best seller, Impressionism, by a two-to-one ratio. Another trend that has emerged is a dip in the number of artists carried by galleries. The survey also reports growth in inventory other than prints, such as originals, sculpture and photography, at galleries.
The 1998 survey revealed a large number of smaller galleries with sales volumes under $100,000. This year, the survey reports a range of mid-size and larger galleries as well as smaller ones.
Within this context, the typical gallery in this year's survey posted an average sales volume of $323,000 in 2000. Galleries in the South and Mountain/Pacific regions posted above-average sales volumes ($450,000 and $388,200, respectively) while those in the rest of the country posted below-average sales volumes that ranged from $312,000 in the Midwest to $292,500 in the South Atlantic states and $246,300 in the New England/Mid-Atlantic states.
Survey results showed that 2000 was a year of growth for half of the galleries, which reported sales increases that typically ranged from six to 10 percent or 11 to 20 percent over their sales volumes from 1999.
Regionally, a variety of sales volume trends emerged, including:
* Galleries in the Mountain/Pacific and New England/Mid-Atlantic regions were more likely to have sales increases than galleries in other parts of the country, and galleries in the South and South Atlantic states were the segments that were most likely to have lost sales dollars.
* The regional proportions of galleries reporting sales increases were as follows: New England/Mid-Atlantic-59 percent; Mountain/Pacific-58 percent; Midwest-50 percent; South Atlantic-41 percent; South-37 percent.
* The regional proportions of galleries reporting sales decreases were as follows: South-25 percent; South Atlantic-24 percent; New England/Mid-Atlantic-22 percent;Mountain/ Pacific-16 percent; Midwest 16 percent.
The overall growth in sales prompted an increase in print purchasing for one-third of the galleries from 1999 to 2000. One-third of the galleries surveyed did not change their print purchases from one year to the next. One out of five galleries decreased print purchases.
The Print Mix is Changing
Nearly every gallery surveyed carries limited-edition prints (95 percent, up from 88 percent in 1998), and 83 percent of galleries surveyed also carry open-edition prints. This number is an increase from 1998, when 63 percent of galleries carried open-edition prints. Each sale of a limited-edition print generated a gross profit of 49 percent (down down from 63 percent in 1998). Each sale of an open-edition print generated a gross profit of 47 percent (down from 62 percent in 1998).
As the 1998 survey found, galleries continue to sell lithographs more than any other type of print. Posters and giclees are the second and third top-selling prints, followed by serigraphs/silkscreens and etchings. Overall, a net of 47 percent of the surveyed galleries added one or more types of prints to their inventories over the past year or two. For the most part, these top five types of prints are sold most extensively by galleries in the New England/Mid-Atlantic states and by galleries with sales volumes of $100,000 to $250,000.
Another significant change from the 1998 survey involves the number of print artists carried by galleries. All of the surveyed galleries carry the work of an average of 38 different print artists. Specifically, one-quarter of the galleries carry fewer than five artists' work; 18 percent carry five to 10 artists; 14 percent carry 11 to 20 artists; 27 percent carry 21 to 100 artists; and 11 percent carry more than 100 artists.
Galleries offered a variety of explanations for expanding their inventories and adding new print artists. Thirty-five percent of galleries grew because they wanted to represent a particular artist. Twenty-six percent of galleries wanted to keep up-to-date. Customer demand prompted expansion of inventory for 22 percent of galleries, and 20 percent of galleries said they wanted to add variety or something new to their inventories.
The Impact of Giclee
Giclees are the leading type of print galleries have added to their inventories. A net of 31 percent of all galleries added giclees, either in the past year (24 percent) or the past two years (17 percent).
Half of the galleries that carry giclee prints carry both giclees-on-canvas and giclees-on-paper. The number of galleries that carry both types tend to increase directionally with sales volume, ranging from a low of 39 percent among small galleries (sales up to $100,000) to a high of 67 percent among large galleries (sales of $500,000 or more).
There are also geographic differences in the percentage of galleries that carry both types of giclees. These differences range from a low of 40 percent in the South Atlantic states to 46 percent in the Mountain/Pacific states, 52 percent in the Midwest, 54 percent in the New England/Mid-Atlantic states and 87 percent in the Southern states.
When only one type of giclee is sold, giclees-on-paper are twice as likely to be sold exclusively as giclees-on-canvas (33 percent vs. 16 percent).
Giclees-on-paper are carried most extensively in the South Atlantic states and in small galleries with 2000 sales volumes up to $100,000. Giclees-on-canvas are carried most extensively in the Mountain/Pacific states and in galleries with 2000 sales volumes of $250,000 to $500,000.
Regardless of the type or types of giclee prints they carry, galleries say giclees-on-paper are better sellers (by a wide margin) than giclees-on-canvas (50 percent vs. 34 percent).
About controversy over giclee printing in the publishing world, most of the galleries that carry giclee prints seem have upbeat opinions about them. Fifty percent have a positive reaction to the recent growth of the giclee market and the same number have a favorable (or positive) reaction to the impact that giclee prints have had on the art market in general.
Top-Selling Subjects and Styles
When it comes to top-selling subjects and styles, the results haven't changed much since 1998. As in 1998, landscapes are once again the top-selling subject (68 percent vs. 68 percent in 1998), leading by a wide margin over the next three top-selling subjects, which are florals (38 percent), wildlife (28 percent) and figures (23 percent). There are some distinctive patterns in the geography and sales volumes of galleries where landscapes, florals, wildlife and figures are the top-selling subjects:
Landscapes sell best in the Midwest and in galleries with 2000 sales of $100,000 to $250,000.
Florals sell best in the Midwest, the New England/ Mid-Atlantic states and in small to mid-size galleries with sales volumes of $100,000 to $250,000 or $250,000 to $500,000.
Wildlife sells best in the Midwest and in galleries with sales volumes of $250,000 to $500,000.
Figures sell best in galleries with 2000 sales volumes of $250,000 to $500,000. Geographically, figures sell about equally well in the New England/ Mid-Atlantic states, the Midwest, the South Atlantic states and the Mountain/Pacific states. In comparison, figures are relatively weak in the South.
When it comes to style, Realism is the hands-down winner, outpacing the next best seller, Impressionism, by a two-to-one ratio. The third top-telling style is Abstract, and other styles include Primitive/Naive, Pop art, Art Deco/Art Nouveau and Surrealism.
The survey has been on hiatus since 1998, but in the interim, several significant trends have emerged. In general, galleries are carrying more limited- and open-edition prints, and the number of galleries carrying open-edition prints has increased. As in the 1998 survey, galleries continue to sell lithographs more than any other type of print. However, the industry is feeling the impact of giclee printing, which is the leading type of print galleries have added to their mix of art offerings.
Landscapes remain the top-selling subject for galleries, and Realism remains the top-selling style, outpacing the next-best seller, Impressionism, by a two-to-one ratio. Another trend that has emerged is a dip in the number of artists carried by galleries. The survey also reports growth in inventory other than prints, such as originals, sculpture and photography, at galleries.
The 1998 survey revealed a large number of smaller galleries with sales volumes under $100,000. This year, the survey reports a range of mid-size and larger galleries as well as smaller ones.
Within this context, the typical gallery in this year's survey posted an average sales volume of $323,000 in 2000. Galleries in the South and Mountain/Pacific regions posted above-average sales volumes ($450,000 and $388,200, respectively) while those in the rest of the country posted below-average sales volumes that ranged from $312,000 in the Midwest to $292,500 in the South Atlantic states and $246,300 in the New England/Mid-Atlantic states.
Survey results showed that 2000 was a year of growth for half of the galleries, which reported sales increases that typically ranged from six to 10 percent or 11 to 20 percent over their sales volumes from 1999.
Regionally, a variety of sales volume trends emerged, including:
* Galleries in the Mountain/Pacific and New England/Mid-Atlantic regions were more likely to have sales increases than galleries in other parts of the country, and galleries in the South and South Atlantic states were the segments that were most likely to have lost sales dollars.
* The regional proportions of galleries reporting sales increases were as follows: New England/Mid-Atlantic-59 percent; Mountain/Pacific-58 percent; Midwest-50 percent; South Atlantic-41 percent; South-37 percent.
* The regional proportions of galleries reporting sales decreases were as follows: South-25 percent; South Atlantic-24 percent; New England/Mid-Atlantic-22 percent;Mountain/ Pacific-16 percent; Midwest 16 percent.
The overall growth in sales prompted an increase in print purchasing for one-third of the galleries from 1999 to 2000. One-third of the galleries surveyed did not change their print purchases from one year to the next. One out of five galleries decreased print purchases.
The Print Mix is Changing
Nearly every gallery surveyed carries limited-edition prints (95 percent, up from 88 percent in 1998), and 83 percent of galleries surveyed also carry open-edition prints. This number is an increase from 1998, when 63 percent of galleries carried open-edition prints. Each sale of a limited-edition print generated a gross profit of 49 percent (down down from 63 percent in 1998). Each sale of an open-edition print generated a gross profit of 47 percent (down from 62 percent in 1998).
As the 1998 survey found, galleries continue to sell lithographs more than any other type of print. Posters and giclees are the second and third top-selling prints, followed by serigraphs/silkscreens and etchings. Overall, a net of 47 percent of the surveyed galleries added one or more types of prints to their inventories over the past year or two. For the most part, these top five types of prints are sold most extensively by galleries in the New England/Mid-Atlantic states and by galleries with sales volumes of $100,000 to $250,000.
Another significant change from the 1998 survey involves the number of print artists carried by galleries. All of the surveyed galleries carry the work of an average of 38 different print artists. Specifically, one-quarter of the galleries carry fewer than five artists' work; 18 percent carry five to 10 artists; 14 percent carry 11 to 20 artists; 27 percent carry 21 to 100 artists; and 11 percent carry more than 100 artists.
Galleries offered a variety of explanations for expanding their inventories and adding new print artists. Thirty-five percent of galleries grew because they wanted to represent a particular artist. Twenty-six percent of galleries wanted to keep up-to-date. Customer demand prompted expansion of inventory for 22 percent of galleries, and 20 percent of galleries said they wanted to add variety or something new to their inventories.
The Impact of Giclee
Giclees are the leading type of print galleries have added to their inventories. A net of 31 percent of all galleries added giclees, either in the past year (24 percent) or the past two years (17 percent).
Half of the galleries that carry giclee prints carry both giclees-on-canvas and giclees-on-paper. The number of galleries that carry both types tend to increase directionally with sales volume, ranging from a low of 39 percent among small galleries (sales up to $100,000) to a high of 67 percent among large galleries (sales of $500,000 or more).
There are also geographic differences in the percentage of galleries that carry both types of giclees. These differences range from a low of 40 percent in the South Atlantic states to 46 percent in the Mountain/Pacific states, 52 percent in the Midwest, 54 percent in the New England/Mid-Atlantic states and 87 percent in the Southern states.
When only one type of giclee is sold, giclees-on-paper are twice as likely to be sold exclusively as giclees-on-canvas (33 percent vs. 16 percent).
Giclees-on-paper are carried most extensively in the South Atlantic states and in small galleries with 2000 sales volumes up to $100,000. Giclees-on-canvas are carried most extensively in the Mountain/Pacific states and in galleries with 2000 sales volumes of $250,000 to $500,000.
Regardless of the type or types of giclee prints they carry, galleries say giclees-on-paper are better sellers (by a wide margin) than giclees-on-canvas (50 percent vs. 34 percent).
About controversy over giclee printing in the publishing world, most of the galleries that carry giclee prints seem have upbeat opinions about them. Fifty percent have a positive reaction to the recent growth of the giclee market and the same number have a favorable (or positive) reaction to the impact that giclee prints have had on the art market in general.
Top-Selling Subjects and Styles
When it comes to top-selling subjects and styles, the results haven't changed much since 1998. As in 1998, landscapes are once again the top-selling subject (68 percent vs. 68 percent in 1998), leading by a wide margin over the next three top-selling subjects, which are florals (38 percent), wildlife (28 percent) and figures (23 percent). There are some distinctive patterns in the geography and sales volumes of galleries where landscapes, florals, wildlife and figures are the top-selling subjects:
Landscapes sell best in the Midwest and in galleries with 2000 sales of $100,000 to $250,000.
Florals sell best in the Midwest, the New England/ Mid-Atlantic states and in small to mid-size galleries with sales volumes of $100,000 to $250,000 or $250,000 to $500,000.
Wildlife sells best in the Midwest and in galleries with sales volumes of $250,000 to $500,000.
Figures sell best in galleries with 2000 sales volumes of $250,000 to $500,000. Geographically, figures sell about equally well in the New England/ Mid-Atlantic states, the Midwest, the South Atlantic states and the Mountain/Pacific states. In comparison, figures are relatively weak in the South.
When it comes to style, Realism is the hands-down winner, outpacing the next best seller, Impressionism, by a two-to-one ratio. The third top-telling style is Abstract, and other styles include Primitive/Naive, Pop art, Art Deco/Art Nouveau and Surrealism.
New web portal focuses on photography - .com news
iPhotocentral, a new Web portal focused on photography, has launched recently at www.iphotocentral.com. "It will be the first major Web site to focus just on photographic art from 1826 to the present," said Alexander Novak, president of iPhotocentral.
The site is aimed at photography collectors, curators and dealers, and it will have detailed search capabilities, an E-Photo Newsletter archive, links to other sites and a calendar of events. Articles on the site will focus on collecting issues, photo history, processes, photographers and aesthetic considerations. Company officials say the site will have the largest art photographic inventory available on the Internet.
The site is aimed at photography collectors, curators and dealers, and it will have detailed search capabilities, an E-Photo Newsletter archive, links to other sites and a calendar of events. Articles on the site will focus on collecting issues, photo history, processes, photographers and aesthetic considerations. Company officials say the site will have the largest art photographic inventory available on the Internet.
Golden Section and Photography
Probably, you are here because you would like to know how to improve your photo technique, what is the Golden Mean, look at examples, read some articles or maybe use our on-line photo-adjuster.
Yes, all the experienced photographers know the "golden" rules of composition and use them almost innately. But until you start to use these simple rules without thinking, you need to practice, think what is better, and read about these rules. I am not going to describe the mathematical basics of these rules because they are well-described in other places, but here you'll find some examples, links to those descriptions, as well as JavaScript which could help you.
Rule of Thirds or Golden Ratio
So, the first "golden" rule is the "Rule of Thirds" or "Golden Ratio". It affects the ratio (1:1.618) of a picture size, as well as the placement of the main subjects in the photo. This ratio is close to the 35mm ratio, so you don't need to change the size of the photo in most cases. But you need to consider the composition: main subject should lie on one of the four lines or four intersections (subject's eye for example). Truthfully speaking, these rules are not the same. Rule of Thirds is a simplified version of the Golden Mean.
Golden Triangles
Another rule is the "Golden Triangles". It's more convenient for photos with diagonal lines. There are three triangles with corresponding shapes. Just roughly place three subjects with approximate equal sizes in these triangles and this rule would be kept.
Golden Spiral or Golden Rectangle
And one more rule is a "Golden Spiral" or "Golden Rectangle" (you'll see why it's a rectangle in the tools section). There should be something, leading the eye to the center of the composition. It could be a line or several subjects. This "something" could just be there without leading the eyes, but it would make its job.
Yes, all the experienced photographers know the "golden" rules of composition and use them almost innately. But until you start to use these simple rules without thinking, you need to practice, think what is better, and read about these rules. I am not going to describe the mathematical basics of these rules because they are well-described in other places, but here you'll find some examples, links to those descriptions, as well as JavaScript which could help you.
Rule of Thirds or Golden Ratio
So, the first "golden" rule is the "Rule of Thirds" or "Golden Ratio". It affects the ratio (1:1.618) of a picture size, as well as the placement of the main subjects in the photo. This ratio is close to the 35mm ratio, so you don't need to change the size of the photo in most cases. But you need to consider the composition: main subject should lie on one of the four lines or four intersections (subject's eye for example). Truthfully speaking, these rules are not the same. Rule of Thirds is a simplified version of the Golden Mean.
Golden Triangles
Another rule is the "Golden Triangles". It's more convenient for photos with diagonal lines. There are three triangles with corresponding shapes. Just roughly place three subjects with approximate equal sizes in these triangles and this rule would be kept.
Golden Spiral or Golden Rectangle
And one more rule is a "Golden Spiral" or "Golden Rectangle" (you'll see why it's a rectangle in the tools section). There should be something, leading the eye to the center of the composition. It could be a line or several subjects. This "something" could just be there without leading the eyes, but it would make its job.
BASIC PHOTOGRAPHIC TECHNIQUES
Today, photography is characterized by a rapid growth in the development of technology and ideas. Each year, millions of pictures are taken and an astonishing array of new films, cameras and imaging systems enter the market. One of the great attractions of the photography field is the ease with which basic skills can be learned.
Unlike some of the older arts that take years of training to produce an acceptable product, anyone can quickly learn how to take a picture; however, photographic techniques must be mastered before you can become an accomplished photographer; therefore, mastery of the basic fundamentals is the foundation upon which you will build your photographic and professional skills as a Navy Photographer’s Mate. The photographic techniques presented in this chapter are essential in producing quality photographs, and you can apply each of these fundamentals, to some extent, each time you take a picture.
Lesson 1: Photographic Composition, Center of interest, Subject placement, Simplicity, Viewpoint and camera angle, Balance.
Lesson 2: Shapes and lines.
Lesson 3: Pattern, Volume, Lighting, Texture, Tone.
Lesson 4: Contrast, Framing, Foreground, Background.
Lesson 5: Perspective.
Lesson 6: Basic lighting techniques: Outdoor and Existing ligt photography.
Lesson 7: Composition and Basic shots or sequences.
Appendix: Subject and Rule of Thirds.
PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPOSITION
Photographic composition is the pleasing arrangement of subject matter elements within thepicture area. Creative photography depends foremost on the photographer's ability to see as the camera sees because a photograph does not reproduce a scene quite the way we see it. The camera sees and records only a small isolated part of the larger scene, reduces it to only two dimensions, frames it, and freezes it. It does not discriminate as we do. When we look at a scene we selectively see only the important elements and more or less ignore the rest. A camera, on the other hand, sees all the details within the field of view. This is the reason some of our pictures are often disappointing. Backgrounds may be cluttered with objects we do not remember, our subjects are smaller in the frame or less striking than we recall, or the entire scene may lack significance and life.
Good pictures are seldom created by chance. To make the most of any subject, you must understand the basic principles of composition. The way you arrange the elements of a scene within a picture, catch the viewer’s attention, please the eye, or make a clear statement are all qualities of good composition. By developing photographic composition skills, you can produce photographs that suggest movement, life, depth, shape, and form, recreating the impact of the original scene.
How are photographic composition skills developed? You look, you study, you practice. Every time you take a picture, look all around within the viewfinder. Consider the way each element will be recorded and how it relates to the overall composition. You must become thoroughly familiar with the camera and learn how the operation of each control alters the image. Experiment with the camera and look at the results carefully to see if they meet your expectations. With experience and knowledge of your equipment, you begin to "think through your camera" so you are free to concentrate on composition. Devote serious study to the principles of good composition. Study books and magazine articles on composition. You should analyze various media: motion pictures, TV, magazines, books and newspapers, and evaluate what you see. What is good about this picture or that TV image? What is bad about it? What principles of good composition could you apply in a different way to make the picture better.
Good or correct composition is impossible to define precisely. There are no hard-and-fast rules to follow that ensure good composition in every photograph. There are only the principles and elements that provide a means of achieving pleasing composition when applied properly. Some of these principles and elements are as follows:
* Center of interest
* Subject placement
* Simplicity
* Viewpoint and camera angle
* Balance
* Shapes and lines
* Pattern
* Volume
* Lighting
* Texture
* Tone
* Contrast
* Framing
* Foreground
* Background
* Perspective
As you study these principles of composition, you should soon come to a realization that some are very similar and overlap one another a great deal.
Because all or most of these principles must be considered and applied each time you take a picture, it may all seem quite confusing at first. With experience you can develop a sense of composition, and your consideration and application of the principles will become almost second nature. This is not to suggest that you can allow yourself to become complacent or careless in the application of the principles of composition. Doing so will be immediately obvious because the results you produce will be snapshots, not professional photographs.
The principles of composition that follow apply equally to both still and motion media photography.
CENTER OF INTEREST
Each picture should have only one principal idea, topic, or center of interest to which the viewer's eyes are attracted. Subordinate elements within the picture must support and focus attention on the principal feature so it alone is emphasized.
A picture without a dominant center of interest or one with more than one dominant center of interest is puzzling to a viewer. Subsequently, the viewer becomes confused and wonders what the picture is all about. When the picture has one, and only one, dominant "point of interest," the viewer quickly understands the picture.
NOTE: "Point of interest," as used here, has the same meaning as center of interest; however, using the term point of interest prevents giving the impression that the center of interest should be located in the center of the picture.
The specific topic, idea, or object to be portrayed must be set in your mind as you prepare to take a picture. When there is nothing in the picture to attract attention to a particular area or object, the eyes wander throughout the scene. The center of interest may be a single object or numerous ones arranged so attention is directed to one definite area
When the center of interest is a single object that fills most of the picture area or one that stands out boldly, such as a white sail against a background of dark water, attention is attracted immediately to it. As may be expected, not all subjects are as simple to arrange or as bold and impressive.
A photographer usually has at his or her disposal many factors or elements that can be used and arranged within the picture area to draw or direct attention to the primary idea of the picture. Some of these elements are lines, shapes, human figures, tone, and texture.
Human figures attract attention more strongly than almost any other subject matter and unless they are the main object of the photograph should probably be kept out of the picture; for instance, a photograph showing a person standing at some distance in front of a building may leave the observer wondering whether the person or the building is the primary subject. When people are included in a scene for comparative size of objects or just for atmosphere, keep them from looking directly at the camera. When people look at the camera and therefore at the viewer of the picture, the viewer tends to return their gaze by looking directly back into their eyes. When they are not the intended point of interest, we miss the statement and purpose of the picture. When people are subordinate elements within the picture and they are looking in a direction other than at the camera, the viewer’s attention is directed from the people to what they are looking at, which should be the center of interest; for example, when people are grouped around a piece of machinery that is the center of interest of the picture, have them look at the machine, rather than the camera.
SUBJECT PLACEMENT
Sometimes good composition is obtained by placing the center of interest in the geometrical center of the picture; it is generally not a good idea to place it there. Too frequently it divides the picture into equal halves and makes the picture uninteresting and difficult to balance. By dividing the picture area into thirds, both vertically and horizontally, and locating the center of interest at one of the intersections of the imaginary lines, you can usually create a feeling of balance to the composition.
In photographic composition there are two general guides for determining the best location for the center of interest. The first is the principle of thirds. The other is dynamic symmetry. In the principle of thirds, the intersection of lines that divide the picture area into thirds are marked by O’s. These intersections are good locations for the center of interest in most photographs. Notice we said THE center of interest. Remember, have only one center of interest to a picture-keep it simple. The principle of dynamic symmetry is a similar idea. A good location for the center of interest is found by drawing or imagining a diagonal line from one corner to an opposite corner. Then, draw a second line perpendicular to the first from a third corner. The intersections of the lines are the location for the center of interest.
SIMPLICITY
Simplicity is the key to most good pictures. The simpler and more direct a picture is, the clearer and stronger is the resulting statement. There are several things to be considered when we discuss simplicity. First, select a subject that lends itself to a simple arrangement; for example, instead of photographing an entire area that would confuse the viewer, frame in on some important element within the area. Second, select different viewpoints or camera angles. Move around the scene or object being photographed. View the scene through the camera viewfinder. Look at the foreground and background. Try high and low angles as well as normal eye-level viewpoints. Evaluate each view and angle. Only after considering all possibilities should you take the picture. See beyond and in front of your subject. Be sure there is nothing in the background to distract the viewer's attention from the main point of the picture. Likewise, check to see there is nothing objectional in the foreground to block the entrance of the human eye into the picture.
A last point of simplicity-tell only one story. Ensure there is only enough material in the picture to convey one single idea. Although each picture is composed of numerous small parts and contributing elements, none should attract more of the viewer's attention than the primary object of the picture. The primary object is the reason the picture is being made in the first place; therefore, all other elements should merely support and emphasize the main object. Do not allow the scene to be cluttered with confusing elements and lines that detract from the primary point of the picture. Select a viewpoint that eliminates distractions so the principal subject is readily recognized. When numerous lines or shapes are competing for interest with the subject, it is difficult to recognize the primary object or determine why the picture was made.
VIEWPOINT AND CAMERA ANGLE
The proper viewpoint or camera angle is an important factor in good composition. Repositioning your subject within the viewfinder frame and changing the camera viewpoint or camera angle are two simple ways of controlling composition.
Photographing from a different viewpoint or camera angle can often add drama and excitement or even bring out an unusual aspect of a subject. Most of the subjects you photograph are three-dimensional and should be photographed from an angle (to the right or left of and/or from higher or lower than the subject) that allows the viewer to see more than one side of the subject. The photographer should study the subject from different sides and angles. Walk around the subject and look at it from all viewpoints. See it from elevated and low positions as well as from eye level to find the best composition. This greatly assists in composing the subject for the best balance and helps to select a background that compliments, not distracts from the subject.
The terms viewpoint and camera angle are often used in conjunction with one another and sometimes used interchangeably. They can also have different meanings depending on how they are applied. Viewpoint" is the camera position in relationship to the subject. "Camera angle" is the angle in which the camera lens is tilted; for example, a picture of sailors marching, made from ground level with the camera held horizontal with reference to the ground, may be referred to as a "low viewpoint" (or camera position); however, when this picture is made, again from ground level, but with the camera pointed up, it may be referred to as a "low camera angle." Likewise, a picture made from an elevated or high position, with the camera again held horizontal with reference to the ground, or even pointed straight down, can be referred to as a "high viewpoint"; however, if the camera is not held horizontal to the ground or pointed straight down, but pointed at some angle between horizontal and vertical, the camera position could be referred to as a "high camera angle."
Eye-Level Shots
With the camera held horizontal, eye-level shots are usualIy made at a height of about 5 1/2 feet, the height from which the average adult sees, and with the camera horizontal. With the camera held at eye level but pointed up or down, the camera position changes and you have either a low or high camera angle, respectively.
Low Viewpoint and Low Camera Angle
Low viewpoints and low camera angles can add emphasis and interest to many ordinary photographs. A low viewpoint can be used to distort scale or add strength to a picture or to emphasize certain elements within the picture. A low camera angle is achieved when the camera angle is located below the point of primary interest and pointed upward. Low angles tend to lend strength and dominance to a subject and dramatize the subject. Low angle shots are used when dramatic impact is desired. This type of shot is very useful for separating the subject from the background, for eliminating unwanted foreground and background, and for creating the illusion of greater size and speed.
fig0507.gif (77538 bytes)
High Viewpoint and High Camera Angle
High viewpoints and high camera angles help orient the viewer, because they show relationships among all elements within the picture area and produce a psychological effect by minimizing the apparent strength or size of the subject (fig. 5-8).
BALANCE
Balance in photographic composition is a matter of making pictures look harmonious. Each element in a picture has a certain amount of value in respect to all the other elements. Every tone, mass, shape, tree, rock figure, building, line, or shadow contributes a certain amount of weight that must be arranged correctly in the composition to give the impression of balance. The subject placement within the picture area is the factor that must be carefully considered.
Composition is kept in balance by two different methods: symmetrical, or formal, balance and asymmetrical, or informal, balance.
Symmetrical, or Formal, Balance
Symmetrical, or formal, balance in a photograph is achieved when elements on both sides of the picture are of equal weight (fig. 5-9A). The idea of formal balance can be related to a seesaw, When there are two equally weighted objects on the seesaw and they are equidistant from the pivot point, or fulcrum, the board will be in balance.
Pictures with formal balance may look static and unexciting; however, they do present an air of dignity. Formal balance does not always mean a picture has to the seesaw in perspective. The forces or weights are be symmetrical. Symmetrical pictures, in which both presumed to be approximately equal; but, the imaginary sides are exactly the same, are produced only when you pivot point is set deep into the picture space. With this want a special effect; therefore, they are not often variation to symmetrical balance, a more interesting produced. A variation of symmetrical balance deals with photograph is usually created (fig. 5-9B).
fig0509.gif (84398 bytes)
Asymmetrical, or Informal, Balance
Asymmetrical, or informal, balance is usually much more interesting than symmetrical balance. In asymmetrical balance the imaginary central pivot point is still presumed to be present; however, instead of mirror images on each side of the picture area, the subject elements are notably different in size, shape, weight, tone, and placement. Balance is established by equalizing the element forces in spite of their differences.
Asymmetrical balance is introduced when the presumed weight of two or more lighter objects is equalized by a single heavier object placed on the other side of the imaginary pivot point (fig. 5-10). Asymmetrical balance is more difficult to achieve than symmetrical balance, because of the problem of establishing relative weight values for dissimilar elements within the picture area as well as presenting some form of stability.
Aspects of Balance
There are many other factors to consider in order to make pictures appear balanced. Some of these are as follows:
* An object far from the center of the picture seems to have more weight than one near the center.
* Objects in the upperpart of a picture seem heavier than objects of the same size in the lower part of a picture.
* Isolation seems to increase the weight of an object.
* Intensely interesting objects seem to have more compositional weight.
* Regular shapes seem to have more weight than irregular shapes.
* Elements on the right side of an asymmetrical picture appear to have more weight than elements of the same size on the left side of the picture.
* The directions in which figures, lines, and shapes appear to be moving within the picture area are important to balance; for example, a person may be walking in a direction, or his eyes may be looking in a direction, or the shape of some element creates a feeling of movement. When the feeling of direction is present within a scene, it tends to upset the balance if judged on the size of the subject alone.
Understanding the factors required to create pictorial balance is essential for you to produce good pictures. To gain this understanding, you can continually test your feelings for balance as you look through your camera viewfinder. Once you gain an understanding of the principles of pictorial balance, achieving balance in your photographs becomes an easy process.
Unlike some of the older arts that take years of training to produce an acceptable product, anyone can quickly learn how to take a picture; however, photographic techniques must be mastered before you can become an accomplished photographer; therefore, mastery of the basic fundamentals is the foundation upon which you will build your photographic and professional skills as a Navy Photographer’s Mate. The photographic techniques presented in this chapter are essential in producing quality photographs, and you can apply each of these fundamentals, to some extent, each time you take a picture.
Lesson 1: Photographic Composition, Center of interest, Subject placement, Simplicity, Viewpoint and camera angle, Balance.
Lesson 2: Shapes and lines.
Lesson 3: Pattern, Volume, Lighting, Texture, Tone.
Lesson 4: Contrast, Framing, Foreground, Background.
Lesson 5: Perspective.
Lesson 6: Basic lighting techniques: Outdoor and Existing ligt photography.
Lesson 7: Composition and Basic shots or sequences.
Appendix: Subject and Rule of Thirds.
PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPOSITION
Photographic composition is the pleasing arrangement of subject matter elements within thepicture area. Creative photography depends foremost on the photographer's ability to see as the camera sees because a photograph does not reproduce a scene quite the way we see it. The camera sees and records only a small isolated part of the larger scene, reduces it to only two dimensions, frames it, and freezes it. It does not discriminate as we do. When we look at a scene we selectively see only the important elements and more or less ignore the rest. A camera, on the other hand, sees all the details within the field of view. This is the reason some of our pictures are often disappointing. Backgrounds may be cluttered with objects we do not remember, our subjects are smaller in the frame or less striking than we recall, or the entire scene may lack significance and life.
Good pictures are seldom created by chance. To make the most of any subject, you must understand the basic principles of composition. The way you arrange the elements of a scene within a picture, catch the viewer’s attention, please the eye, or make a clear statement are all qualities of good composition. By developing photographic composition skills, you can produce photographs that suggest movement, life, depth, shape, and form, recreating the impact of the original scene.
How are photographic composition skills developed? You look, you study, you practice. Every time you take a picture, look all around within the viewfinder. Consider the way each element will be recorded and how it relates to the overall composition. You must become thoroughly familiar with the camera and learn how the operation of each control alters the image. Experiment with the camera and look at the results carefully to see if they meet your expectations. With experience and knowledge of your equipment, you begin to "think through your camera" so you are free to concentrate on composition. Devote serious study to the principles of good composition. Study books and magazine articles on composition. You should analyze various media: motion pictures, TV, magazines, books and newspapers, and evaluate what you see. What is good about this picture or that TV image? What is bad about it? What principles of good composition could you apply in a different way to make the picture better.
Good or correct composition is impossible to define precisely. There are no hard-and-fast rules to follow that ensure good composition in every photograph. There are only the principles and elements that provide a means of achieving pleasing composition when applied properly. Some of these principles and elements are as follows:
* Center of interest
* Subject placement
* Simplicity
* Viewpoint and camera angle
* Balance
* Shapes and lines
* Pattern
* Volume
* Lighting
* Texture
* Tone
* Contrast
* Framing
* Foreground
* Background
* Perspective
As you study these principles of composition, you should soon come to a realization that some are very similar and overlap one another a great deal.
Because all or most of these principles must be considered and applied each time you take a picture, it may all seem quite confusing at first. With experience you can develop a sense of composition, and your consideration and application of the principles will become almost second nature. This is not to suggest that you can allow yourself to become complacent or careless in the application of the principles of composition. Doing so will be immediately obvious because the results you produce will be snapshots, not professional photographs.
The principles of composition that follow apply equally to both still and motion media photography.
CENTER OF INTEREST
Each picture should have only one principal idea, topic, or center of interest to which the viewer's eyes are attracted. Subordinate elements within the picture must support and focus attention on the principal feature so it alone is emphasized.
A picture without a dominant center of interest or one with more than one dominant center of interest is puzzling to a viewer. Subsequently, the viewer becomes confused and wonders what the picture is all about. When the picture has one, and only one, dominant "point of interest," the viewer quickly understands the picture.
NOTE: "Point of interest," as used here, has the same meaning as center of interest; however, using the term point of interest prevents giving the impression that the center of interest should be located in the center of the picture.
The specific topic, idea, or object to be portrayed must be set in your mind as you prepare to take a picture. When there is nothing in the picture to attract attention to a particular area or object, the eyes wander throughout the scene. The center of interest may be a single object or numerous ones arranged so attention is directed to one definite area
When the center of interest is a single object that fills most of the picture area or one that stands out boldly, such as a white sail against a background of dark water, attention is attracted immediately to it. As may be expected, not all subjects are as simple to arrange or as bold and impressive.
A photographer usually has at his or her disposal many factors or elements that can be used and arranged within the picture area to draw or direct attention to the primary idea of the picture. Some of these elements are lines, shapes, human figures, tone, and texture.
Human figures attract attention more strongly than almost any other subject matter and unless they are the main object of the photograph should probably be kept out of the picture; for instance, a photograph showing a person standing at some distance in front of a building may leave the observer wondering whether the person or the building is the primary subject. When people are included in a scene for comparative size of objects or just for atmosphere, keep them from looking directly at the camera. When people look at the camera and therefore at the viewer of the picture, the viewer tends to return their gaze by looking directly back into their eyes. When they are not the intended point of interest, we miss the statement and purpose of the picture. When people are subordinate elements within the picture and they are looking in a direction other than at the camera, the viewer’s attention is directed from the people to what they are looking at, which should be the center of interest; for example, when people are grouped around a piece of machinery that is the center of interest of the picture, have them look at the machine, rather than the camera.
SUBJECT PLACEMENT
Sometimes good composition is obtained by placing the center of interest in the geometrical center of the picture; it is generally not a good idea to place it there. Too frequently it divides the picture into equal halves and makes the picture uninteresting and difficult to balance. By dividing the picture area into thirds, both vertically and horizontally, and locating the center of interest at one of the intersections of the imaginary lines, you can usually create a feeling of balance to the composition.
In photographic composition there are two general guides for determining the best location for the center of interest. The first is the principle of thirds. The other is dynamic symmetry. In the principle of thirds, the intersection of lines that divide the picture area into thirds are marked by O’s. These intersections are good locations for the center of interest in most photographs. Notice we said THE center of interest. Remember, have only one center of interest to a picture-keep it simple. The principle of dynamic symmetry is a similar idea. A good location for the center of interest is found by drawing or imagining a diagonal line from one corner to an opposite corner. Then, draw a second line perpendicular to the first from a third corner. The intersections of the lines are the location for the center of interest.
SIMPLICITY
Simplicity is the key to most good pictures. The simpler and more direct a picture is, the clearer and stronger is the resulting statement. There are several things to be considered when we discuss simplicity. First, select a subject that lends itself to a simple arrangement; for example, instead of photographing an entire area that would confuse the viewer, frame in on some important element within the area. Second, select different viewpoints or camera angles. Move around the scene or object being photographed. View the scene through the camera viewfinder. Look at the foreground and background. Try high and low angles as well as normal eye-level viewpoints. Evaluate each view and angle. Only after considering all possibilities should you take the picture. See beyond and in front of your subject. Be sure there is nothing in the background to distract the viewer's attention from the main point of the picture. Likewise, check to see there is nothing objectional in the foreground to block the entrance of the human eye into the picture.
A last point of simplicity-tell only one story. Ensure there is only enough material in the picture to convey one single idea. Although each picture is composed of numerous small parts and contributing elements, none should attract more of the viewer's attention than the primary object of the picture. The primary object is the reason the picture is being made in the first place; therefore, all other elements should merely support and emphasize the main object. Do not allow the scene to be cluttered with confusing elements and lines that detract from the primary point of the picture. Select a viewpoint that eliminates distractions so the principal subject is readily recognized. When numerous lines or shapes are competing for interest with the subject, it is difficult to recognize the primary object or determine why the picture was made.
VIEWPOINT AND CAMERA ANGLE
The proper viewpoint or camera angle is an important factor in good composition. Repositioning your subject within the viewfinder frame and changing the camera viewpoint or camera angle are two simple ways of controlling composition.
Photographing from a different viewpoint or camera angle can often add drama and excitement or even bring out an unusual aspect of a subject. Most of the subjects you photograph are three-dimensional and should be photographed from an angle (to the right or left of and/or from higher or lower than the subject) that allows the viewer to see more than one side of the subject. The photographer should study the subject from different sides and angles. Walk around the subject and look at it from all viewpoints. See it from elevated and low positions as well as from eye level to find the best composition. This greatly assists in composing the subject for the best balance and helps to select a background that compliments, not distracts from the subject.
The terms viewpoint and camera angle are often used in conjunction with one another and sometimes used interchangeably. They can also have different meanings depending on how they are applied. Viewpoint" is the camera position in relationship to the subject. "Camera angle" is the angle in which the camera lens is tilted; for example, a picture of sailors marching, made from ground level with the camera held horizontal with reference to the ground, may be referred to as a "low viewpoint" (or camera position); however, when this picture is made, again from ground level, but with the camera pointed up, it may be referred to as a "low camera angle." Likewise, a picture made from an elevated or high position, with the camera again held horizontal with reference to the ground, or even pointed straight down, can be referred to as a "high viewpoint"; however, if the camera is not held horizontal to the ground or pointed straight down, but pointed at some angle between horizontal and vertical, the camera position could be referred to as a "high camera angle."
Eye-Level Shots
With the camera held horizontal, eye-level shots are usualIy made at a height of about 5 1/2 feet, the height from which the average adult sees, and with the camera horizontal. With the camera held at eye level but pointed up or down, the camera position changes and you have either a low or high camera angle, respectively.
Low Viewpoint and Low Camera Angle
Low viewpoints and low camera angles can add emphasis and interest to many ordinary photographs. A low viewpoint can be used to distort scale or add strength to a picture or to emphasize certain elements within the picture. A low camera angle is achieved when the camera angle is located below the point of primary interest and pointed upward. Low angles tend to lend strength and dominance to a subject and dramatize the subject. Low angle shots are used when dramatic impact is desired. This type of shot is very useful for separating the subject from the background, for eliminating unwanted foreground and background, and for creating the illusion of greater size and speed.
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High Viewpoint and High Camera Angle
High viewpoints and high camera angles help orient the viewer, because they show relationships among all elements within the picture area and produce a psychological effect by minimizing the apparent strength or size of the subject (fig. 5-8).
BALANCE
Balance in photographic composition is a matter of making pictures look harmonious. Each element in a picture has a certain amount of value in respect to all the other elements. Every tone, mass, shape, tree, rock figure, building, line, or shadow contributes a certain amount of weight that must be arranged correctly in the composition to give the impression of balance. The subject placement within the picture area is the factor that must be carefully considered.
Composition is kept in balance by two different methods: symmetrical, or formal, balance and asymmetrical, or informal, balance.
Symmetrical, or Formal, Balance
Symmetrical, or formal, balance in a photograph is achieved when elements on both sides of the picture are of equal weight (fig. 5-9A). The idea of formal balance can be related to a seesaw, When there are two equally weighted objects on the seesaw and they are equidistant from the pivot point, or fulcrum, the board will be in balance.
Pictures with formal balance may look static and unexciting; however, they do present an air of dignity. Formal balance does not always mean a picture has to the seesaw in perspective. The forces or weights are be symmetrical. Symmetrical pictures, in which both presumed to be approximately equal; but, the imaginary sides are exactly the same, are produced only when you pivot point is set deep into the picture space. With this want a special effect; therefore, they are not often variation to symmetrical balance, a more interesting produced. A variation of symmetrical balance deals with photograph is usually created (fig. 5-9B).
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Asymmetrical, or Informal, Balance
Asymmetrical, or informal, balance is usually much more interesting than symmetrical balance. In asymmetrical balance the imaginary central pivot point is still presumed to be present; however, instead of mirror images on each side of the picture area, the subject elements are notably different in size, shape, weight, tone, and placement. Balance is established by equalizing the element forces in spite of their differences.
Asymmetrical balance is introduced when the presumed weight of two or more lighter objects is equalized by a single heavier object placed on the other side of the imaginary pivot point (fig. 5-10). Asymmetrical balance is more difficult to achieve than symmetrical balance, because of the problem of establishing relative weight values for dissimilar elements within the picture area as well as presenting some form of stability.
Aspects of Balance
There are many other factors to consider in order to make pictures appear balanced. Some of these are as follows:
* An object far from the center of the picture seems to have more weight than one near the center.
* Objects in the upperpart of a picture seem heavier than objects of the same size in the lower part of a picture.
* Isolation seems to increase the weight of an object.
* Intensely interesting objects seem to have more compositional weight.
* Regular shapes seem to have more weight than irregular shapes.
* Elements on the right side of an asymmetrical picture appear to have more weight than elements of the same size on the left side of the picture.
* The directions in which figures, lines, and shapes appear to be moving within the picture area are important to balance; for example, a person may be walking in a direction, or his eyes may be looking in a direction, or the shape of some element creates a feeling of movement. When the feeling of direction is present within a scene, it tends to upset the balance if judged on the size of the subject alone.
Understanding the factors required to create pictorial balance is essential for you to produce good pictures. To gain this understanding, you can continually test your feelings for balance as you look through your camera viewfinder. Once you gain an understanding of the principles of pictorial balance, achieving balance in your photographs becomes an easy process.
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